“Well it calls for A LOT of butter” the waiter at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon informed me assuming perhaps that this very statement might put me off asking for the recipe for Pommes Puree aka mashed potato. Little does he know that:
a) I’m one of those people that if you tell me I can’t do it, I’ll try even harder to do it
b) I unashamedly love butter
There are certain dishes that some chefs are known for and Joel Robuchon is known for his mashed potato. I thought “Oh I’m sure it’s nice enough, but how good could it be?”. Like most of you, I’ve had some fabulous mashed potato so why would his version be necessarily that different. So I took a spoonful and was reduced to a gooey buttery mess. It was utterly buttery and creamy and smooth yet light. How could this be? How could it taste So. Damn. Good.? And that’s when I called the waiter over to try and wrestle a recipe out of him or at least a hint. Of course he wasn’t going to give away the secret apart from the excessive amount of butter in it and the mash remained a distant but very fond memory.
About a year later, I received a book in the mail from Great Grand and Famous called “Great, Grand and Famous Chefs and their signature dishes”. I flicked through it and my glance landed on Joel Robuchon’s Pomme Puree recipe. I clutched my heart in joy and marked this for a future dinner party dish. I read the quantities – yes there was a lot of butter but oddly enough, there wasn’t a lot of cream, just milk. It appeared that along with the significant helping hand of 1/4 kilo of butter to 1 kilo of potatoes (not as frightening as I thought as I had envisaged a 50:50 ratio) the method differed slightly. The key here is to remove as much water as possible, beat in the butter a little at a time, and then the milk, a little at a time. The final finishing was of course to pass it through a sieve to ensure that it was as silky smooth as possible.
I decided to make this with a rack of lamb, one of Mr NQN’s favourite dishes (shhh don’t tell his vegan mum about that!). I wanted to cook him something that he’d like like as he was on holidays and he adores mashed potato but had missed out on trying Robuchon Pommes Puree. What did he and our guests think? Thankfully they adored it. If you are a mashed potato fan and like it rich, buttery and smooth, then this recipe is worth trying if only just the once (and I should think that using that much butter may concern some quite right). I now had changed my friend’s minds about Joel Robuchon who they’d thought was a little evil after seeing him on an episode of Iron Chef marking down the Japanese Iron Chefs down drastically in favour of the French chefs. It seems that if one wants to leave a lasting impression, you’d best to do it in the way of food. Now instead of that “mean Iron Chef judge” they now refer to him as that “a quarter kilo of butter chef”. And their tone is one of pure reverence and not of mocking.
So tell me Dear Reader, what’s your favourite way to cook and eat potatoes? Roast potatoes? Chips or wedges? Or something different entirely?
Pesto Rack of Lamb with the Ultimate Pommes Puree Mash
Serves 4
- 12 lamb cutlets (about 1.2 – 1.3kg rack of lamb)
- 2 tablespoons oil
- 1 cup dry breadcrumbs
- 100grams finely grated parmegiano reggiano
- 3 tablespoons oil
- 1/4 toasted nuts (I used cashews)
- 1.5 bunch fresh parsley with a few sprigs of fresh basil, mint and whatever fresh herbs you like
- salt and pepper
- 2 tablespoons mustard
For Pommes Puree
- 1 kg potatoes
- 250grams best butter
- 1 cup whole milk
- salt to taste
For Pommes Puree
1. Make the Pommes puree first. Scrub and clean the whole potatoes, leaving the skin on. In a large saucepan, bring water to the boil and cook them uncovered over moderate heat until a knife can be inserted into the potato easily. Drain immediately. Bring 1 cup of milk just to the boil and set aside.
The butter and milk added
2. Pass the potatoes through a potato ricer with the finest setting and put into a heavy bottomed saucepan on low heat. With a flat bottomed spatula, stir the potato vigorously for 5 minutes to remove all moisture. Add 1 tablespoon of butter at a time until it is throughly incorporated. Your arm may be sore by the end of this but it’s worth it, trust me.
Passing the mash through a sieve
3. Slowly add the milk a little at a time or in a thin stream if you have someone to help you. Ensure that it is fully incorporated. Season with salt and pepper. Pass the potatoes through a fine mesh sieve into another heavy bottomed saucepan. If the puree is too heavy oor stiff, add more butter and milk stirring all the time. This can be made up to 1 hour in advance. To keep warm, place in the top of a double boiler, uncovered, over simmering water and stir occasionally to keep smooth.
Adapted from Great, Grand and Famous
For Lamb Rack
4. Preheat oven to 200C/400F and line a baking tray with parchment. Season lamb cutlets with salt and pepper. In a medium-hot saucepan add oil and sear lamb cutlets on sides and across the fat at the back (I find it easier to sear one side, then teh back adn then the other side). Then place on parchment lined baking tray and bake for 7 minutes. While the cutlets are baking, add the breadcrumbs, herbs, reggiano and process. Add oil until it comes together almost like a pesto. Place in a shallow plate or bowl.
5. When lamb is ready, brush the fat side with mustard and then press into the pesto mix. When you are ready to serve it, bake it in the oven for a further 2-3 minutes. Serve with pommes puree.
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73 Comments | Add your own
A perfect combo! I love the look of those silky mashed potatoes!
Cheers,
Rosa
I love potatoes, and I daresay I’d love it no matter how it was cooked. (I even have a potato cookbook!) This looks lovely, I personally think there’s nothing better than a bowl of well cooked mash.
True to form, wonderful post! I make baked potatoes frequently–mine with cheese browned on the top and my sweetie’s twice baked with sour cream, butter, sauted garlic and onions, and cheese. (He always looks disapprovingly at mine and offers me half of his!)
Well, us Finns love potatoes in any way! I just made a mash yesterday and yes, with a LOT of butter! That’s the best way
Yummy! This looks really yummy! I usually just a little bit of butter and milk! I think I will try adding more butter next time!
Lamb and mash!My favorite combo!!!!!
Wowsa! Awesome mash potato recipe! I’ll tell you after I make it whether the sore arm was worth it! LOL
I love butter, too. It’s my hips that object.
Oh my God. When did you make pies for a living? Where have I been?
You made it! I really have to try this one day although the amount of butter still scares me a little. What potatoes did you use? When I saw his recipe in his book, it requires rattes/ BF15. I wonder if it matters.
The rest of my family love mash – this one would have hubby in conniptions I’m sure!!
My fave way to have potatoes is probably delphinoise or sliced and baked with garlic and rosemary.
Hussyband and I had Joel’s Pomme Puree in Tokyo a couple of months back, and I must agree with you that it was the most amazing mash that has ever settled on my hips. Creamy, decadent and you know with each bite that it is not going to be a healthy night. Thank you for sharing the recipe (and giving me something else to cook to try and get the outlaws to like me when we move!)
I get along just fine with potatoes of all forms, lol! I really love good mashed potatoes though, and this recipe looks fabulous! The method of adding little by little is really interesting…I can see how this would be well worth a sore arm from all that stirring!
Thank you so much for sharing this amazing recipe….I’m just about licking the monitor! I normally favour roast potato for ease of preparation, but this dish looks worth the extra effort.
I love a good rich mash for a dinner party, although my fail safe recipe calls for cream and butter- definitely not something to have all the time!!! love the look of the lamb
Roasting would be my favourite way, with some fresh rosemary from the garden. I’ve never really been a mash fan, but will eat it if it’s there.
both look so good and i love the story of the potatoes! we’ve got a ton of lamb in the freezer, so i think i need to try this recipe
wow – still sounds a lot of butter but it looks divine! sometimes i just don’t want to know how much chefs put in meals. . .
i love swiss rosti, but i can never make itproperly – mine comes out soggy & not nearly crispy enough.
Oh my goodness this looks devine!! All the ladies in the office just got very excited at the sight of this post. Mash looks AMAZING… think I will have to make this on the weekend!
hey that pommes puree looks awesome. my personal fav recipe (my aunty taught me) is to chop potatoes into cubes, boil until just before tender (not too soft or they’ll turn into mash) and then mix with sourcream butter mayo, added choooped boile eggs and sprinkle with chives ahh. i make it for every party we have at my house.& then there are friess mmm
In Austria we have a TV ad which says (translated) “you can’t replace butter with anything else”. And it is so true… I am a butter lover as well!
I adore potatoes in any shape or form and remember one night when I was about 12 years old, my dad and I made dinner as my mum was working late. When she came home she just laughed as we had made mashed potatoes, wedges and potato salad! haha Potato lovers from way back.
This recipe is one of my favourites and everyone wolfs it down when I do make it.
Slice potatoes with a mandolin, pat dry, season with salt & pepper, drizzle with olive oil and place a sage leaf on top of each one. Bake in a moderate oven until golden brown. Eat immediately!!
I love potato in all it’s fantastic forms. It’s easily one of my favourite foods.
for me, i doubt any potato dish will ever top a smooth and creamy bowl of heavily-buttered mashed potatoes. good heavens, yours look decadent and divine!
Adore everything with pesto and more with lamb. The puree is a perfect match with this dish.
Don’t worry about his vegan mom, …we can finish this succulent lamb before she’ll notice
Cheers,
Gera
Lamb cutlets are among our very favourites too. I remember that a rack of lamb with a herb crust was the first thing I cooked for my family when I was growing up. It pains me to say it but I don’t eat much potato these days but my favourite way of cooking it is to roast it in duck or goose fat. It somehow makes them so light – deeply crunchy on the outside and fluffy within.
Whilst the idea of potatoes always sounds good to me, I have always hate potato ever since I was a baby. That said, I adore polenta, rice, noodles, bread etc so I don’t miss out. Since having a child I’ve had to overcome my hate of potato and cook it for her and now (at 44) can almost stand the smell of cooked potato! Almost.
Oooooh that looks SO good! May skip the spuds but will definitely try the lamb! Thanks for posting!!
Mmmm, I had pommes puree at Martin Bosleys in Wellington, and it was fantastic. The lamb dish also looks wonderful.
I have heard of these mashed potatoes before, and now I am longing even more to have them! Did they taste as you remembered them or do you think Robuchon uses even more butter or another secret that he didn’t write about?
This recipe looks like something my husband and I would like. I love mashed potatoes and he loves Rack of Lamb and Pesto. Rack of Lamb is very expensive here in the states and not easily found, so a special occasion meat when it is found. I have to mention that my husband BBQ’s the Rack of Lamb with a v=bit of seasoning. As for the mashed potatoes, you are right, not to be eaten but maybe once a year for me. They have a lot of butter but look yummy. You Blog had a few recipes pop up to click on if you like this one and I found a recipe for creamy potato and zucchini gratin. I will try this in the near future. Thank you for sharing such wonderful recipes. Oh, as for potatoes, I love mashed, baked, wedges, fries, steamed red potatoes.
Mmm – that crusted lamb rack looks superb! And though I like buttery mash, my favourite potatoes are those sitting in the pan simmered in chicken juices when you do a roast. Mmm
Ooh gorgeoous mashed potatoes! they look so creamy! I like my potatoes any way they come! It must be the Irish in me! Although, given the choice and time, I roast them with some great olive oil and fresh rosemary from my garden. mmmm
I’ve always throught you can tell a lot about a restaurant by the quality of their mashed potatos – I call it the “Mashed potato barometer”! These sounds heavenly.
Wow what yummy looking potatoes. Might have to make this.
I know I’m an odd one out here, but those super smooth mashed potatoes just don’t appeal to me. I definitely like some chunk with my potato, and I get sad when potatoes are parted from their fetching jackets. Poor naked souls.
Oh man that pomme puree looks good! With that amount of butter I’m sure it tastes absolutely heavenly as well
I always love a good mash. And you have made a damn good creamy mash. EVerythinng in moderation so never too much butter
May I just say I nearly swooned over the mash: it looks like an ethereal cloud of sheer goodness!
(Personally, I’m a mashed potato girl, but fry the tubers up as chips or crisps and you’ll still put a smile on my face.)
OH.. honey that is just divine… I have not had Lamb since I’ve been in Japan… I need to go to a meat shop right quick… lamp is/was one of my favorite and the mash…. I’d love to try them.
That mash looks amazing! One day when I have a bigger kitchen, I want to get a decent mouli…
the potato mash looks lovely. I had some turffle potato mash at Aria and it was gorgeous, you could see it was near it’s limit of buttery goodness
Potatoes … any kind, they’re just so easy to cook. My hubby love roast potatoes and especially mashed.
I will have to try to make this one, drooling all over the place already … hahahaha
Our family loves mashed ‘taters, baked ones, roasted, rosti, and also potato bake. Also we make our own potato chips … thinly cut potato, shallow fried in oil. Delicious.
Ooh I’ve heard of these potatoes! They sound good but honestly I prefer my mashed potatoes to not be pureed – I like chunks of potato and shreds of skin in there! I want to know it was once a potato…which is why I often disagree with the methods taught at my very French cooking school. Ah well.
If I am the one cooking the potatoes generally I roast them in the oven or fry them in a pan with some olive oil, lots of salt and pepper and some crushed rosemary. Or I just crust them with salt and bake them to eat with lots of butter and pepper!
My mum’s baked potatos (funny, we’ve never called them “roast potatos”, although that’s what they are), but even more than that I just like cold steamed/boiled potatos. Preferably kipflers.
And I would have expected the mash to be more dangerous than this too. Why, it’s practically health food!
I firmly subscribe to Joel Robuchon’s method of making mashed potatoes! Once I found out his recipe a few years ago, I always make it this way, it’s the best! The rack of lamb looks amazing!
Who says no to butter? Sometimes you have to just dump it in there and not count the sticks!
Dear Lorraine…wishing you a very Happy and Delicious 2010 from California!
We have to try your fantastic Lamb recipe it will be a perfect partner for the fruity Santa Barbara Syrah. Love the touch of cashew in the crust.
Cheers,
Judit & Corina
i love lamb.
esp lamb shank! heehee.
but i’ve a phobia of preparing them.
sometimes they can have quite a bad stench :S
yours look fantastic btw dear
I’ve heard of this potato recipe and would only eat it if someone else made it,hehe! There’s no way I could put it in my mouth if I knew how much butter was in it, I love the cultured European butter though! Such a good flavour but in moderation!
Ooh I’m always interested in good mash recipes, it was the first thing I learnt to make on my own. It’s nice to see that recipe uses milk, I use a ton of milk and butter in mine too!
What a gorrrrgeous dinner!! I want to try these potatoes — I bet Mike would LOVE them!
the potato puree looks divine but i quite like the look of the pesto crumb you’ve got going on the lamb…your husband is lucky!!!
and for me, i love my chips!!
This whole dish looks amazing and the potatoes look deliciously decadent. Sadly for our waist lines it seems butter is the key to all that amazing restaurant cooking – the amount your average restaurant puts in a risotto is quite scary
I want to make those potatoes!!!! So much butter must send the taste into the stratosphere. The book sounds great!
Beautiful! I’m not afriad of butter and this looks so good. Thanks Lorraine
I thought the same thing when I read it…how good could a mashed potato be?
Well, I now know! Thanks for enlightening me. Gotta have butter and whole milk!
AHH pesto. Doesn’t everything get better when there’s pesto involved? And then you make mash! AHH *dies* the best part of mash for me, is making croquettes with the leftovers.
I can’t think of a way I don’t like potatoes. I know I would love these! xoxo Mum
Mmmercy! I’m such a sucker for anything with pesto. Delish!
Best mashed potatoes? Oh yeah. Those do look killer. I love potatoes in pretty much any form =D.
Those potatoes sound heavenly!
I make a ’scalloped’ potato dish, it’s potatoes, (sliced thin in the food processor) placed in a casserole dish then pour in the Heavy Cream to just cover the potatoes. Top with a little salt and fresh ground pepper and bake at 350 to 375 until potatoes are tender and top is starting to brown.
Gets lots of oohs and aahs!
this sounds fantastic! i’m definitely a fat chip girl all the way, with side of aioli! or patatas bravas…mmm…
I love a good mash and my mash is made with the same ingredients as Joel, but smaller quantities of butter and milk. I also don’t bother to sieve it!
My secret ingredient is to add a dollop (or a few!) of Japanese mayonnaise to my mash – it seems to take on another dimension!
Add some black pepper and a little bit of nutmeg too to you mashed potatoes … that’s how we do it in Belgium. It really is a big difference. mmmmmmm
I love mashed potatoes! Yours look so creamy and delicious. I usually add saffron to mine.
Ohmygoodness!!!! Mr J loooooves lamb but I never knew how to cook them so I couldn’t cook it for him. But thanks to this recipe I’m a bit more confident and adventurous! Once again, thanks Lorraine!
Oh wow, this has shot to the top of my recipes to try list. Love me some good mash.
Love lamb and mash!
Hi Rosa-thankyou Rosa!
Hi Su-yin-Hehe you are a serious potato lover then!
Actually I knew a girl who ahd a potato cookbook and she loved them every which way too! 
Hi MaryPoppinsinHeels-Thankyou lovely! Ooh they sound decadently good and luscious! Why is that? They both sound fabulous
Hi Maria-Here here I totally agree!
Hi BowsNHearts-I know me too, I try to make it a bit healthier but this one is so much better (but not for regular ingestion methinks! )
Hi figtreeapps-Fabulous!
Hi joey-Thankyou! Haha perhaps yours won’t be as sore-I don’t have great muscle development
Hi Blond Duck-Ahh don’t you hate that!
Haha and for a Southern USA restaurant too!
Hi pigpigscorner-I did! I know, it’s hard to think a whole thing of butter can go into a kilo of potatoes! I used regular washed potatoes. This recipe didn’t specify a type.
Hi Liss-Good stuff! Mmm sounds delicious that might have my in conniptions!
Hi AussieFoodie-Isn’t it just! And so worth the extra workout!
You’re more than welcome! Haha!
Hi Faith-Thankyou! Yes I’d heard of warming the milk but this was my first time adding tablespoons at a time!
Hi Meredith-You’re welcome! Haha!
It’s good to try once in a while – there might be a bit too much butter for regular consumption! 
Hi sandra-Yes that’s so true, once every few months, or in my case once every year or so!
Hi Fiona-Mmm yes fresh rosemary is a lovely addition to potatoes!
Hi lola-Thankyou! It’s very good together-I hope you like it!
Hi brussellsprout-Hehe yes it is but sadly once you take a bite you quickly forget it (which is a good and bad thing I guess!
). Mmm I love roesti but same thing, I saw how much butter was needed and couldn’t do it!
Hi EmBirksy-Thankyou! Hehe that’s wonderful! I’d love to know what you think of it!
Aww and I love the fact that there is a whole bunch of you reading NQN!! 
Hi Betty-Thanks! Ahh a sour cream potato salad? I love Sour cream potato salads!
Hi Big M-It’s so true isn’t it!
Hi matilda-Haha well nothing wrong with that! You are definitely potato lovers from way back! Ooh sounds lovely-I do love sage!
Hi Karen-It’s great isn’t it!
Hi grace-Yes I love a creamy mash or chips. Heaven! Thankyou so much!
Hi Gera-THankyou! Hehe I don’t think she saw it (at least I hope so )
Hi Amy-Oh you were such an accomplished cook! :O Well done! Mmm duck and goose fat potatoes are the best aren’t they!
Hi Ellen-Oh no what a shame! Creamed polenta is quite similar to mash and I have to say that I love that
Hi Jenn -Thanks! You’re more than welcome!
Hi Cakelaw-I bet it was gorgeous! I wonder how they compare?
Thanks!
Hi Brittany -They are so devilishly good! They were pretty close I have to say although I’m sure he doesn’t tell us everything
Hi Darlene-OH fabulous! Something for everyone then
Ahh I see! OH great, so glad that you’re discovering other things too and you’re more than welcome! 
I must look out for some red potatoes!
Hi Forager-Thankyou! OH yes it’s lovely when the flavour soaks through-yum!
Hi Sarah-Hehe thanks to the amount of butter they sure are!
Those potatoes sound simple but delicious 
Hi Ylla-Hmm very clever! And of course should any restaurant serve powdered, that’s an instant dismissal!
Hi Esz-Thanks! Please do, I’d love to know what you think of it!
Hi Conor-Oh really? I don’t mind juice that has pulp so that’s probably similar. Hehe you are so funny!
Hi Jacq-Thankyou! I think butter makes everything taste better
Hi penny-Me too! Thankyou! Yes we probably won’t have this again for a while as much as we’d like to!
Hi Midge-Aww thankyou! Me too, mash and chips are where it’s at for me
Hi so Spiffy-Thanks darling! Do they sell lamb much there? I don’t seem to recall seeing it much while I was there!
Hi Deb-Thankyou! Great idea!
Hi Anita-Thanks so much! Haha I wonder what the limit is ratio wise?
Hi AR-Hehe that’s the ultimate compliment! I hope you like it
Hi MrsDesperate-Potatoes all around! Oh yes home made potato chips are the best aren’t they! I love them!
Hi anna-Ahh you’re like Conor! For me there’s a big difference between pureed potato and faux potato and I can definitely taste the difference skin or not
Hi Hannah-Yes that’s true, some people call them baked potatoes and some roast although they’re the same thing!
Mmm kipflers! Haha that’s a good attitude!
Hi Natasha – Absolutely, he definitely know best!
Hi The Duo Dishes-Only the crazy!
Hi WineDienTv -Thankyou so much and a Happy New Year to you too! Sounds like a marriage made in heaven
Hi felicia-Yes sometimes lamb does have a distinctive smell doesn’t it! Thankyou!
Hi Moya-Hehe I know,but I was determined to see what it was like! Mmm yes cultured European butter is amazingly good
Hi Steph-Oh cool, is the recipe very similar to yours?
Hi Julie-Thankyou!
If he loves mash I’d almost guarantee he would!
Hi Panda-Thanks! He was rater happy that day which was good
Mmm yes chips, double fried please! 
Hi Gourmet Chick-Thankyou so much! Yes *sigh….I can imagine it would be rather scary!
Hi deana-Hehe you should! And let me know what you think of them too
I hope you like them!
Hi Lea Ann-Good on you!
You’re more than welcome!
Hi Barbara-Trust me it’s so good!
Worth skipping the diet for one night 
Hi Sweets at Vicky’s-Doesn’t it just indeed!
Mmm yes and then croquettes tehmselves are little crunchy balls of loveliness!
Hi Barbara-Hehe I know you would mum!
xxx
Hi Krista-I love how pesto is so flavour packed!
Hi Lauren-Hehe why thankyou! Me too
Hi Lynda-Thankyou! I can imagine! I make a similar dish and I have to pull myself away from eating it
Hi restaurantgroupie -Oh yes aioli, isn’t that the best accompaniment for a chip!
Hi Rilsta-I think that’s the more practical way as sieving it is a little troublesome! Ooh I’ve heard of adding mayo, I’ll try that next time!
Hi Annemie-Ahh ok thankyou! I’ll try that next time
Hi Erica-That sounds so lovely and decadent!
Hi Trisha-Chops are so easy and they’re easy to eat too-they even come with a bone to eat off! You’re welcome!
Hi Alex-Cool! I’d love to know what you think of it!
Hi myookinghut-Excellent stuff!
I’m going to make these tonight!~! this nearly induce a foodorgasm just by looking!
Lorraine,
I made this on Friday and that was THE BEST mashed potatoes. So creamy and … oh no words could explain.
Can’t eat this every week tho, (even my tummy and hubby will always say YES).
Thanks for the recipe!!!
Hi Lorraine
I just made this recipe for dinner today, almost cried making the mash but it’s really worth the hard work. The lamb turned out beautifully. Thanks for sharing, I’ve tried some of your other recipes and they are all superb. Keep up the good work.
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