What’s the first thing that you think of when you think of Antibes? Is it the Hotel du Cap, the holiday destination for celebrities like Brangelina, Madonna, Johnny Depp or other wealthy celebrities? Or is it the less fast-paced side? The painter’s trail where Picasso, Chagall and Monet found the light in Antibes so spellbinding that they set up easel and started painting?
We are on day two of our trip through regional France with Rail Europe. Although we haven’t taken a train yet (that’s tomorrow), we take the 30 minutes drive from Nice to Antibes where we first stop at Cap d’Antibes which is the billionaire playground of the Antibes. The marina is the second biggest in the Europe add you may find the super yachts of billionaire Roman Abramovitch moored here. Overlooking this is Fort Carre as Antibes was a lookout fort for the military. Juan Les Pins is the nearby nightclubbing and shopping area not unlike the Gold Coast or Bali strips of shops, restaurants and bars. Cafes are set up for maximum people viewing and the area is busy as shops open until late at night.
We pass the town of Villeneuve-loubet which a pilgrimage for chefs as it is the town where famed chef Augusted Escoffier was born. There is a museum that features his menus and equipment.
Nearby is the old town of Saint-Paul-de-Vence which is worth a stop. With less than a thousand residents, the town has been beautifully preserved and features pretty boutiques.
Actor Yves Montand was known for playing petanque there during his time. Artists like Picasso, Matisse and Chagall have spent time at Saint-Paul-de-Vence and the many boutiques sit alongside art galleries. Leave yourself at least an hour to explore the winding streets and alley ways but don’t wear heels! The pretty star shaped cobblestones are not for heels.
The Antibes are known as a place that has attracted many painters including Monet, Peynet and Picasso. There is a painter’s trail which is about an hour’s walk from end to end and shows where these painters painted their famous works and it’s wonderful to be able to see the view behind the panels.
Claude Monet’s interpretation of the view
Eugène Boudin’s interpretation of the view
Raymond Peynet’s interpretation of the view
Pable Picasso’s interpretation of the view
There is also a Picasso museum dedicated to the works that the famous painter created during his time there in 1946. The sandstone building was the site of his studio. At the end of his stay there, he donated all of the works (over 40 paintings and over 20 sketches) to the town of Antibes. They now feature in this museum as Picasso wanted people to see them in Antibes.
We take a drive to the Provencale markets which are on every day but Monday and there are a range of items from cheeses, pastries (including ones with with lemon cream and coffee cream), dried lavender as well as some lovely jams including a wonderful lychee jam and a rose jam.
Rose salt
One of the most fascinating stands is the spice stand that has a wonderful range of spices, slightly different from what you might see. Rose salt is one of the items that is a little different and I swoon at its beautiful hue.
Dried licorice sticks that look like little branches which you chew!
Adjacent to the market is an Absinthe bar where the ground level looks like a regular store but you take the stairs to the basement to the Absinthe bar. Walk past the old signs which were supposed to warn patrons of the danger of Absinthe or anything that wasn’t wine, beer or cider. Near one wall sits a table and chairs where a well once sat and pretty decorated tables hold the instruments necessary for chasing the green fairy.
We stayed right along the painter’s trail at the Hotel Royal Antibes which is a minimalist hotel on the water. Admittedly the stay wasn’t off to a great start. There was no porter and my first room smelled of cigarette smoke even though it was on a non smoking floor. A call down to reception yielded apologies but it was only when I asked to change rooms that I was moved to another room.
The rooms here are distractingly minialist. I don’t mind minimalist but they do need to be functional. The shower head has nowhere to hang it so if you want to shower, you need to juggle the tall thin bottles and coax out product while holding the small shower head. Also the glass panel on the shower is not wide enough to stop water getting all over the floor. There is no shower cap and there is a beauty set that sits in the shower which I didn’t see until I got into the shower after I had taken my make up off. The original room didn’t have any tissues and these had to be ordered from house keeping.
Pluses are the rooms are clean and new and the beds with plush sheets and pillows are very, very comfortable. There are robes and slippers in the suite (although not in the original room). There is also a power point at the head of the bed within easy access and a shelf on which to place things. There is a spacious verandah although the fifth and top floor doesn’t quite stretch over the facing building.
We depart for dinner at nearby Bastion named after the fort of the same name. The room is certainly striking with plenty of lights and deep, velvety reds and cherry blossoms. Pride of place is the open kitchen which is somewhat of a rarity in France (in fact these are called Cuisine Américain or American kitchens). The menu has items from all over the world and there are items from Bulgaria, France, Belgium and Italy with a distinct lean towards Asian and Asian fusion dishes.
Okinawa
The sushi and maki selection is made up of tuna and salmon nigiri, a few types of maki and a perplexing small bowl with a piece of maki topped with crab stick, cucumber and topped with fried shallots. It was quite odd and perhaps I shouldn’t have ordered sushi.
Madrid E24
The madrid was delicious though and made up of tender slices of black pig with a round of paella made with risoni and studded with pieces of chorizo, onion and capsicum.
Milk chocolate and hazelnut cake
Now how do you sell dessert to people that are full? Well you bring a tray of glistening, delicious looking desserts, watch their mouths water and order one of each. The milk chocolate and hazelnut is a slender rectangle of milk chocolate mousse on top of layers of chocolate sponge, chopped hazelnuts and feuilletine to give it a lovely crunch. A paper thin layer of milk chocolate sits on the very top. Art on a plate!
So tell me Dear Reader, do you like going to visit art galleries and museums when you travel?
NQN travelled as a guest of Rail Europe.
Rail Europe
Rail Europe is the exclusive distributor of the France Rail Pass in the world. www.raileurope.com.au
Musee Picasso
Chateau Grimaldi, Place du Chateau, 06600 Antibes, France
Tel: +33 04 92 90 54 20
Hotel Royal Antibes
16 Boulevard Marechal Leclerc, 06600 Antibes, France
Tel: +33(0)483619191
Restaurant le Bastion
1 Avenue Général Maizière 06600 Antibes, France
Tel: +33 04 93 34 59 86
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35 Comments | Add your own
Oh, gorgeous pictures. Drooling over the Provencale markets!
Yes, and yes. I love to visit farmers market’s too. Those porcini mushrooms are so beautiful, I haven’t seen one in a very long time. Thanks for this little tour! Photo of marina made me a little sentimental, I melt about anything marina and nautical, I guess it’s just my nature. And living in the middle of nowhere, well,scratch that, in the middle of the country, makes me feel suffocated.
I love the first image of the house with the blue shutters. So beautiful. I love Monet’s interpretation of the view but what was Picasso seeing? Shame about the dodgy room. I would have preferred a room a little more French looking. The minimalist business could have been in any nondescript part of the world xx
Rose salt?????? Oh, my. I want some of that…You are in one of my favorite parts of the world. I can almost smell the market as you walk us through it.
Yes, I am a real museum hound. Can be left for hours and hours on my own in a good museum.
I love the south of France , the painters trail looks like a great thing to do. I love going to galleries on holiday and a tour around the various galleries in Paris is fabulous. GG
Escoffier’s menus and rose salt! ! ! How wonderful!
That sushi does sound odd, I’m glad the desserts made up for it
What wonderful photos. I particularly love the ones of the market – one can only imagine the many different aromas. I do like to visit art galleries. I have no artistic talent at all but enjoy the skills of others.
A beautiful beautiful place in the world…I’m transfixed by the vibrant colour and amazing historical scenery that annoints daily life there. I feel like Alice peering through the looking glass …truly lovely. Thank you.
–Where can I begin?
Okay, Picasso’s interpretation of the view! What a genius. How Unique and Exciting.
Lorraine, I’d spend hour upon hour in the market-place looking at all of the gorgeous lavender & colors & spices…
Ooooo, and the rose salts. I’m not sure what this is…but I’d buy lots of that! Xxxx
I could have enjoyed that visit for weeks. That’s my kind of holiday.
Lorraine, you do live the life! This place looks really beautiful – one for the bucket list, although the hotel is worth skipping it seems.
The price of the berries! OMG and it’s summer?
I rarely visit galleries, unless it is really special one or there is something particularly important. I hate to say I find them very tiring and, in a new place, I’d rather get to know the culture and the feel of the location rather than stare at stuff on a wall. (If this makes me sound a bit pedestrian, well, the good thing is that I’ve seen some pretty good ones – the Met, MoMa, the Modern, American History and some others in NYC, Louvre, Tate Modern, Chicago Art, British Museum, Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam, Uffizzi and L’Accademia in Florence…so I figure I’ve been to a fair few good ones…
A very humble thank you. Lorrraine, for having taken me to one of my favourite places in the world: Saint-Paul-de-Vence! Although I must have been there half a dozen times my photos are nowhere as good as yours. On the hillside next to the petanque players there was the most fabulous restaurant ‘Colombe d’Or’ with the best S French charcuterie and literally dozens of goat cheeses from all over. Oh, the rest of the surrounds you have depicted are beautiful also, and there IS always THAT light! Museums and galleries – eat them for breakfast, lunch and tea when in Europe
! Food for the mind: beauty eternal!
PS How is Mr NQN lasting re TdF? Last night wonderful as both the Oz and Estonian champions in first four
! Still hoarse from barracking 
!
LOVE experiencing local markets, TRUE!
As (like the rose salt), you never know what you will discover too!
I always thought I was born in a museum,
Am curious about EVERYTHING, and are people and historical events REALLY as they do seem?
I can only do so many museums and art galleries at a time. 1 or 2 is enough at a time. I am lucky that I am close to lots when I am in Italy so I get to spread out the visits.
Love the blog,great photos.
Europe is one big art gallery,how can you choose one over the other?saw some fabulous paintings recently in the museum in Naples,wonderful in the huge space.
Enjoy your trip,my envy knows no bounds.
I have never heard of Antibes until right now, so Iearned something today.
Museums and markets–two of my favourite places to go on holidays. I love Picasso’s interpretation of the view–probably painted after a summer of tourists.
As I lie in my minimalist bed in Munich on the last day of this 9-day trip, I am footsore from tramping through many many museums and Schloss(s). I love museums, art galleries and markets, where Hussyband is more the activities type so we have to come to a fine balance. This trip has seen as many educational stops as beirgartens!
what a wonderful place to be… i would love to spend my time there too.
The markets and produce look wonderful! Shame about the sushi…
OMG, the architecture, the markets (the colorful array of spices are making me giddy! I have a huge bag of herbs de provence, brought home to me from France, that I’ve barely touched, WHY?), the beautifully plated sweet and savory dishes – wow! What a fantastic write-up and photo journey of your visit to Antibes. It really makes me feel as if I was there too!
No I’m not into art galleries or museums at all – I’m into food! That fresh produce market looks amazing – the vibrant berries and tomatoes make me miss summer produce so much more!
What a trip and experience my friend complete with sights and food
I utterly adore the beautiful looking artist interpretations, almost as much as your dessert
Cheers
Choc Chip Uru
C’est Magnifique Lorraine, Oh I love everything about this post! Reminds me of my time in France, your pictures are beautiful, the food , the markets…OOh, La la.
When I saw the Licorice sticks I immediately thought of my mum, she used to chew/suck on these when she was young, you really can’t beat the taste of anything so natural!
I loved The Louvre and would have happily stayed in there for a whole week.
I never knew Picasso donated a whole collection like that. As always your tours are fun and informative. I really could move into those spice markets and live there happily. They are gorgeous as are your photos. I am rather envious of that absinthe drip at the end… I’ve always wanted one and thought it would be a hoot at a party. Can’t wait to see where you go next on your tour!
Hi Laura-Thanks Laura! They were so lovely!! I wanted to buy everything
Hi Marina-I was amazed at how big they were!! We only really tend to get dried ones here. Aww well I have lots of marina photos coming up!
Hi Charlie-The town was full of these sorts of places. It was quite beautiful indeed! Haha yes he definitely saw the world in a different way didn’t he
Yes I felt the same about the room
xxx
Hi Victoria-I know, isn’t it gorgeous? I wish I could have bought some but my bag was so full!
I know, it’s quite incredible to visit it 
I can too if it’s the right museum! 
Hi Glamorous Glutton-Yes it’s lovely to be able to see exactly what they did!
Hi Rebecca-Yes there was so much to see and do
Hehe indeed they did 
Hi Chris-Yes I wish we had longer there! Hehe I’m much the same, I admire them more because I can’t do it
Hi Kris-Yes it’s stunning isn’t it?
It’s hard not to take photos there 
You’re very welcome Kris! 
Hi Kim-Yes there’s no one quite like him is there? I know, I wish I had tried it or had room to buy some, even a little bag of it! xxx
Hi Maureen-I know, we only scratched the surface really, I bet there is so much more to see!
Hi Karen-Yes it’s well worth stopping and having a look
I know what you mean, if a museum or gallery peaks my interest (culinary museum or I do love
modern art, then yes) but otherwise food markets and people are what really interest me
Hi Eha-You’re very welcome Eha!
It was so lovely there. I’m afraid I wasn’t feeling very well there so I didn’t have the chance to really look around
there but I hope you liked the photos. I wish we had gone to that restaurant but it was a very quick hour long visit alas! Hehe he has been up all night watching the TdF but he has to work early nowadays so he drags himself to bed
Thank you for asking! 
Hi Joanne-That’s a wonderful quality to be curious about everything I must say!
Hi Debra-Yes I couldn’t do a whole day although quick visits are good for me. I don’t tend to stay and contemplate things. You certainly wouldn’t have a
shortage!
Hi Janny-Thanks Janny!
Thanks, it was a great chance to see some amazing area 
Hi Liz-Hehe yes I’d love to see what he did! Although I suppose many would say I am seeing it!
Hi Elisa-Oh I hope your feet and legs are feeling better!
Ahh what a good way to compromise 
Hi Love2dine-It was indeed
Hi Stefanie-Haha indeed! I should have known better than to order sushi
Hi Lisa-Oh what a treasured memory in culinary form!!
Thank you so much Lisa! 
Hi Margaret-Haha fair enough and I understand!
Yes I wish it were summer here now… 
Hi Uru-Thanks Uru! I know the artwork and the dessert and the markets were my highlights
Hi Matilda-Merci Matilda! I wish I had bought one now just to see what it was like!
Yes I think it’s very possible to stay at The Louvre for a week and just manage to see everything in that time!
Hi deana-Yes it’s quite remarkable and lovely
Thank you so much! Sadly that wasn’t mine, it was at the Absinthe bar. I wonder what it is like to have? 
Thank you! 
What a lovely trip, Lorraine. I do indeed like visiting art galleries. Going to see if I can squeeze Antibes into our trip in the fall. Thanks.
I love going to museums and art galleries
last time I went to Paris we only spent 3 hours at the Lourve 
i was so upset… because my parents aren’t really into these things and they were getting rather bored.
It’s amazing place you were staying at Lorraine ~ and I love all their architecture ~
NEED TO GO BACK TO FRANCE
Antibes is a gorgeous city. We were there for about 2 days and I was in love. We went to the theme park and it was so much fun – stayed there til close and it was a gorgeous night with all the lights flashing. This post really makes me miss Europe!
I like visiting the occasional museum and gallery but I wouldn’t go somewhere just to visit them. I would have given in to those desserts too.
I have dreamed of this place and now your photos have made it come true. Dried licorice sticks…I had no idea. Rose salt ? I’m going to make some with my dad’s organic rose petals. Absinthe…what a great tonic. Everything here feels like home. Merci beaucoup, c’est magnifique!
Beautiful beautiful beautiful adventure to buoy my spirits. Thank you Spay Lady.
I agree, the dessert does look like art on a plate
I visited Antibes in 1994. We sat on the beach, walked through the markets – gorgeous! Thanks for the memories xo
Just arrived from Paris myself; have a great time!
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