“Where are you from?” asks a pretty French brunette girl carrying, I kid you not, a bottle of champagne and a baguette, perhaps hearing our excited chatter in non native tongue.
“Australia!” we answer.
“Well then, welcome to Lyon!!” she says cheerfully and waves to us.
No she wasn’t an employee from the Lyon Tourism Office but just a friendly local. We had just traveled from Antibes to Lyon by Rail Europe’s TGV train which is a four hour ride. The first class seats are comfortable and the journey is scenic. After I spent half the time writing, I spent the rest of the time sleeping. There is also a car that serves food from croque monsieur to hot dishes like duck parmentier and beef provençale.
After arriving in Lyon, where the weather is welcoming and warm, we were taking the walk to Café De Fédérations, said to be one of the best bouchons in Lyon serving traditional Lyonnaise food where we would be trying the specialities of the region.
Originally the name bouchon derived from post men on horses who would ride their horses hard and arrive at a restaurant for the evening. The horses would have to be washed and brushed and the action of cleaning the horses was called bouchon. A bouchon is a uniquely Lyonnaise experience where hearty food and a casual, jovial atmosphere surrounds. In Lyon, there are about 20 certified traditional bouchons but many other restaurants call themselves bouchons even though their menus don’t reflect that of a bouchon. Which I’m sure raises a manicured eyebrow.
Lyon is an area rich in food. There are 2,000 restaurants in Lyon with a total of 31 Michelin stars at last count. Renowned “chef of the century” Paul Bocuse hails from Lyon and the Les Halles markets have been renamed in his honour to Les Halles Paul Bocuse. His restaurant has been open in Lyon for 42 years and has held the Michelin stars for the entire time.
The tables in Café De Fédérations are decked out in red and white checkered tablecloths. Pigs dominate the decor with large pink and white pigs sitting on the counter. A drawing of male pig sitting on a toilet reading a newspaper shows the location bathroom and a female lipsticked pig blowing a kiss provides those otherwise engaged with something to look at.
Booths make up many of the tables and we slide into one large booth at the back of the restaurant. Bottles of house wine in covetable bottles are brought to the table. One waitress, unamused and head mistressy alternates with her polar opposite, one that is genial and friendly. The owner, Yves Rivoiron comes to our table to greet us along with the other customers.
Meurette (egg soup)
Our first taste hits the table and its a whole poached egg in a rich red wine and bacon broth. Absolutely delicious, the broth is full of flavour from the red wine and smoky bacon and is viscous but not thick. The centre of the egg is a deliciously runny yolk which is a nice, creamy contrast to the smoky soup.
Charcuterie plate
Next were two types of sausage that they cure on the premises, rosetta sausage and a véritable saucisson de Lyon. One hangs next door at a length over a metre and reaches from the ceiling to the countertop. Both are hungrily snapped up and are served with cornichons.
De puy lentils
The lentils are those fantastic de puy lentils that never get soggy and these are shiny as tiny black river stones. They come with a mustard dressing.
For mains, there is a choice of dishes to choose from with Lyonnaise specialties like black pudding with apple, chitterling sausages, stew of pork cheeks, calves head with ravigote sauce and for those wanting something a bit more middle of the road: chicken with vinegar.
Tête de veau calves head
A generous serve, at each place the tête de veau is slightly different. This comes as two rustic style thick pieces which are soft and jellied and mild in flavour and this is paired with a sauce ravigote. This is made with vinegar, mustard, herbs and capers and give the mild tasting meat a contrasting sauce.
Stew of pork cheeks
The cheeks are tender and meaty and served with whole potatoes in a rich, thick red wine sauce. And yes the serve was as enormous as it looks!
The cheese course comes out next and includes a vache cheese, Saint -Marcellin cheese, a potted blue cheese blend, another blue cheese and a cheese round covered in dried olives. There was also a bowl of creme fraiche strong with chives and we eat this with the bread provided.
Dessert comes out as a share platter made up of praline pie, a crunchy sweet pie coloured pink that seems to be abundant in pastry shops here that is a must try. There is also chocolate fondant cake, Chartreuse ice cream, rum baba and a fruit salad in a jar. The praline pie, a lovely mix of crunchy, nutty and sweet is a favourite. And with that, a very happy and well fed bunch of travel writers made their way back to the hotel!
Lyon’s Hotel Royal was our home for the night with two of my favourite decorating themes: toile and dogs. It is an M Gallery hotel which means that each hotel is uniquely decorated. The theme downstairs in the lobby is blue with bulldogs, pugs and blue toile wallpaper and I make my way upstairs to my room on the third floor which is a corner room with a Juliet balcony overlooking the Place Bellecour and a little way in the distance is the Rhone River.
View from my window
My room is decorated in red toile and furnishings and has a comfortable, big bed. There is free wifi in the rooms and in the bathroom is a range of Fragonard toiletries in two fragrances including shampoo 2 in 1, body lotion, bath salts, body wash and soap. I couldn’t quite figure out how to use the shower head to use the second one and the hot water tap didn’t work but apart from that there were robes, slippers and soft towels.
The area around the hotel holds some serendipitous finds and we discovered that the best places were ones down quiet looking streets. We found a cool vintage store called Leonard with some amazing shoes in pristine condition as well as a good range of men’s vintage clothing.
Quality men’s and women’s vintage at Leonard
Goodies to go at Chorliet
Another cheese store La Crémerie de Charlie had cheese that was made on site and showed the number of miles as “0″ for some of the cheeses. We tried a thimble sized vache cheese which is served as an aperitif and it was fabulously tangy, creamy and dry.
Displays of cheese at La Cremerie de Charlie
Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
About 10-15 minutes walk or a short bus ride away from the square on the C9 bus is the famous Les Halles de Paul Bocuse markets which is worth a visit. Recently renovated, the nearly 60 stores inside are sleek and neat with prettily presented goods. Prices are not too bad however and there are some stand out stores that are known to locals. At 9:30am it is quiet but later on in the day and weekends sees the most patronage.
Bahadourian is a spice store that sells wonderfully exotic pastries like pigeon pastilla and a glorious range of glistening glacé fruit. Each piece is cooked in sugar syrup and then left for three days and then cooked again. The fruit including barbery figs and prickly pear comes in a range of luscious hues and you just want to dive in and try them all. Some of the figs are stuffed with foie gras and almonds and there are even entire whole glacé pumpkins.
Oh and speaking of foie gras, well there is no shortage of the controversial item here. Lobes of foie gras are available alongside a range of foie gras mousses and pates. I try one with gingerbread for €2.50 and it is good and I’d imagine it would be great spread on some toast although I think you’re just meant to eat this with the spoon provided.
Colette Sibilia
Sibilia is headed by Colette Sibilia, the charismatic doyenne of the Les Halles markets. Considered as the Mere Lyonnaise or the Mother of Lyon, she has spent over 40 years working at the markets. Her store Sibilia sells an enormous range of pork and meat based charcutierie and other products including one item called cervalas sausage with pepper and pistachios which are sliced up and cooked and served with beans.
Another specialty item is the poultry from Bresse which is sold at a few stores here. The poultry is sold with the head still on with some feathers attached. A ring on the left leg shows the name and addressses of the breeder, a seal on the base of the neck shows the name of the slaughter operator and there is also a special Bresse poultry label. The poultry, poulard, capon, is either male or female and comes from the “Gauloise de Bresse” breed and is fed on dairy products as well as corn, wheat and cereals grown exclusively in Bresse.
Their feed is supplemented by natural feed found in the meadows. Each chicken gets 10 square metres and they eat larvae, worms, insects as well as grass. After at least four months they are then kept in 10 or so days in a coop. The meat varies between breeds but is renowned for being superb.
Troiliertis one of the most well known butchers in the area
Well you know why I like visiting France right? The pastries and chocolate! And there are plenty of chocolatiers here including Richard Séve who was recently named one of the best chocolate makers in France although the cakes also caught my eye.
I bought a “tamaro” to take back to the hotel with me for breakfast and the inside was chocolate mousses studded with croustillant pearls (tiny crunchy balls) on top of a chocolate financier soft almond cake layer. It is then covered with a fine mist of chocolate and the ball on top contains a tangy passionfruit sauce.
How beautiful are these praline tarts? In 1905, a master pastry chef started a shop in Champagne Mont d’Or and inspired by the rose gardens in the region, tinted the pralines a similar pink in his copper mixing machine. This proved a hit with customers and the rose hued praline tart was born.
After several changes of ownership, in 1991, Richard and Gaëlle Séve bought the patisserie and found the original machine downstairs, neglected over the war years. They revived and modernised the recipe after consulting with the master pastry chef’s descendents. The almonds are roasted prior to coating with red sugar and vanilla.
Le Mere Richard is a cheesemaker that specialises in the creamy Saint-Marcellin cheese, which we tried last night.
Tiny potatoes
Unshucked oysters
Before we make our way to the next leg of the Hidden France journey with Rail Europe, we visit Le Silk at the Sofitel for a quick lunch. Situated along the Rhone River, past the floral bouquet sculpture above, Le Silk is situated on the ground floor and there is also an outdoor dining area.
Emperor Angelfish with sesame seeds and sauce vierge
We choose from a alternate two course menu and the sun warms us up. The angelfish is a white fish served moist and coated in toasted sesame seeds. It sits on a bed of moreish zucchini noodles, pickled radishes, yellow capsicum and cherry tomatoes which is dressed in sauce vierge which is a vinegar, oil and herb sauce.
Supreme of poultry with tarragon and potatoes
Cafe Gourmand
There were three components to the cafe gourmand, a cup of strong black coffee, a strawberry salad dressed in a sweet strawberry sauce, a chocolate fondant and a delicious creme brulee with a toffee crust. A fittingly sweet ending to this food rich city.
So tell me Dear Reader, which markets have really impressed you? And when you travel, do you like casual dining like bouchons or fine dining?
NQN travelled as a guest of Rail Europe.
Rail Europe
Rail Europe is the exclusive distributor of the France Rail Pass in the world. www.raileurope.com.au
Café De Fédérations
8 Rue du Major Martin 69001 Lyon, France
Tel: +33 04 78 28 26 00
Hotel Royal
20 Place Bellecour 69002 Lyon, France
Tel: +33 04 78 37 57 31
Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
156 Rue Garibaldi 69003 Lyon, France
Tel: +33 04 78 62 39 33
Le Silk Brasserie
20 Quai Docteur Gailleton 69002 Lyon, France
Tel: +33 04 72 41 20 20
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53 Comments | Add your own
The weather really does look fabulous!
Oh Lorraine! France, charcuterie-style delights, and dessert! Perfection perfection
Your photos look incredible!!
There is a market in Brisbane where one of the stalls has towers of rocky road which are taller than the people behind the tables
That has impressed me. Great post Lorraine, I hope I get to France one day.
I love everything when I travel, exploring the region. Although I do prefer a small family own, out of the tourist path eateries.
I need to move next to La Cremerie de Charlie, really. Love cheeses, more than sweets!
And I thought you love cats?
What a lovely post Lorraine. I think one of the world’s greatest mysteries is how it is that the French remain so thin. Just look at all that food and the number of courses and the size of the portions. Where do they put it? xx
Wow, what a trip! Those cakes, desserts and chocolates are making me drool.
One criticism Lorraine – you cut off the cute guy’s head……
Oh yeh, you want to know a market, I went to one in Beijing that sold centipedes, scorpions, beetles, cicadas, roaches and snakes – all threaded on skewers to be BBQ’d for tea. I didn’t partake.
France……Ahhhhh!!! BEAUTIFUL!!!!
How do you get to go to such BEAUTIFUL places, eat gorgeous food, meet stylish people, and still have time to take those out of the world pics AND write about them?
Love the reviews.Those praline tarts look so great and what a lovely story too. Imagine finding priceless machines that have seen war and ravages….gives me goosebumps.
What a beautiful trip. Crusader made pink praline tarts a little while ago – first I’d heard of them.
I can’t decide which I liked more – the scenery or the food. When away I like casual dining to get the atmosphere of the location and to experience how the locals live and dine. I also like exploring those quiet, out of the way shops and streets.
I want one of those glace pumpkins! And some of those cheeses, and pastries, and oysters, and foie gras, and a chocolate Dolly… And you did mention champagne didn’t you?
I love to try ‘real’ regional food when I travel and visiting local markets its the best place to start, especially when they have an amazing array like this one!
Lyon was a place I didn’t get the chance to go to. It looks like an absolutely amazing city. You got to try so much food, and a variety at that. Lucky girl!
Oh where is my passport?!! Loved this post. Now I have to go back and scrutinise all those beautiful food shots. Amazing looking stuff Lorraine.
Love markets in France!! We will be there next week and I can’t wait!! So excited.
Les Halles Paul Bocuse looks fabulous. I also like the market halls in Avignon. I bet they don’t compare though!
K xx
Gorgeous photos NQN, looks like you had an amazing time! My favourite food market is a little one in La Spezia Italy – the quality of produce is amazing, and they have 50kg parmesan wheels that (apparently) can be used as collateral against loans!
What a post, thank you for the taste as now I can’t wait to get to France next year on our driving holiday – so much to see and eat.
Everything looks so tempting, I need to book a flight immediately!
Oh my goodness please tell my why we don’t have shops dedicated entirely to cheese?!?
Wow NQN! What a fantastic post! I didn’t want it to end! My hubby and I J’adore France…we were fortunate enough to hire a car and drive around the countryside for 3 weeks last year. (we’ve just booked our next trip there next year!) We adored eating in little places with the locals and while my husband fell in love with Foie Gras, I couldn’t get enough of Rillettes….mmmmmm
Oh Lyon. We went out for dinner in Lyon and ordered pork from the menu. My french was fairly rudimentary (even after 6 years of it as school!) and everything was in French (as it would be). We received a very large pigs’ trotter sitting in a lot of pig fat. Now I’m up for most things but I couldn’t even look at that little gourmet delight!
And Fragonard. I love Fragonard, in fact I’m wearing on of my all time favourite perfumes today which is from Fragonard.
Thanks for the memories – I love reading about your food journey xo
Carrying champagne and baguette in the streets! Oh so French!
I love the red checkered napkin tucked into the collar. So rustic!
Where do I start Lorraine? I love France and all it’s delectable delights! I was happy to read that the locals are becoming friendlier and you couldn’t get more French than baguette and Champagne, my all-time favourite drop.
You can leave me at the cake shop for the Tarte Praline and Poupee Russe en Chocolat and then drop me off at Bahadourian to feast my eyes on the glace’ fruit. (btw, I still haven’t attempted my home-made glace’ fruit but this has given me inspiration).
I love how the poultry is presented and the care that has been taken in raising it to perfection. I can just imagine the taste.
When I travel I do a bit of both , eat where the locals do and always have at least one fine-dining experience.
*Note to self* Need to re-visit France, tout de suite!
All four of my grandparents are from France and I could cheerfully spend a month there every year. If only…
Fantastic journey, Lorraine!
Paris!!! OMG !!! That’s food heaven and look at all those yummy looking tarts and desserts … I definitely have to go there someday
Oh, Lorraine – I am truly breathless! My own trips to Lyon, which to me, is the food capital of the whole world, are kind’of behind me! Now that is REAL food: and I love the bistro styling. Would give anything for a plate of the sliced head or those delicious cheeks! And what absolute joy in the cheeses! I’ll come back to this post time and again: you truly have ticked all the boxes for me
! Have been to markets everywhere but was most awestricken at the big weekend markets in Bangkok [not the floating] the first time ! visited and absolutely loved the big Market Halls in Budapest – I had never seen so many colourful vegetables in my life! OK, was lucky, local friends showed us around for the first, and my second husband, a Hungarian and a foodie if ever there was one, waxed lyrical when first we reached Hungary!
Hi Lorraine…oh what a perfect, perfect post…I am salivating here and now I’m feeling like eating (what else is new ha ha)…There is an outside chance we may be going over to France next year…I’m going to keep coming back and read your previous posts on France! By the way, do they do gluten free over there!
WOW! You (once again) have impressed me today!
Nothing like casual dining like bouchons in its unique way!
Have experienced Lyon locals, music and food!
Something MAGICAL in the air which creates that romantic food mood!
oo… that bread platter + cheeses and creme fraiche
*drool drool*
Must contain myself!
French food – all of it – in France – sigh. Jealous.
Markets: love Borough Market in London and also Santa Monica Market in LAX. Didn’t know that brussels sprouts grew on stalks like they do until I saw them at Santa Monica market in January this year. Most markets in Paris are fabulous too.
Food, France, markets – heaven. Double sigh.
This is one of my favourite places in the world esp for the food and culture. Just gorgeous! Thanks for sharing xx
Oh my gawwwddd, how gorgeous does Lyon look? And all that food, how sublime. For me, the French have the best markets in the world. Next to that would be Canada and you’d be amazed at how great the markets are in County Cork, Ireland, awesome. I’m not sure that I would be so adventurous trying all those animals’ heads and things but, give me some white or red wine with delicious bread, butter, cheese, charcuterie and desserts, sitting by a river in a rural or city setting and that truly for me is, BLISS!!!
This is an Area of France we’ve yet to go to and I will add it to my list
Lorraine mon cherie you get the best gigs going!! Lyon is a true foodies Mecca & you did it proud.Wonderful produce,amazing restaurants & food! Even the train trip was enjoyable.Those butcher shops are an eye opener for us Aussies,chickens with heads,feet&feathers still attached, were there any rabbits with their fur coats on? Ahhh to be in France eating & drinking your way through the countryside.I just adore your posts.Oh I love quaint little cheap & cheerful places to eat the most.. Ciao ciao xx
I love reading about your travels… such gorgeous accompanying photos too. I’m dizzy (and hungry) from looking at all those delicious food.
Incredible French photos
Loving it!
Cheers
Choc Chip Uru
Hi The Squishy Monster-It was so sunny and gorgeous!
Hi Hannah-Merci darling merci!
Hi Rebecca-Thank you!
Hi Theresa-Oooh that sounds amazing! I’d love to visit that and I love rocky road too!
Thanks so much! I hope you get the chance to visit 
Hi Marina-yes that’s always nice isn’t it? I enjoy a contrast in places
Hehe I do love cats and dogs!
Hi Charlie-Thank you! I know, how do they do it? I don’t understand either
xxx
Hi gin-tonic-Thanks! Hehe well I was trying to keep his identity a secret. No just kidding, that showed up the logo the best
Oh my, now that would be interesting! I wonder if I would try them! 
Hi Minnie-Thanks Minnie! It’s a wonderful privilege to get to visit these places
I know, isn’t it the most magical story?
Hi Cakelaw-Thank you! I want to make some here now!
Hi Merilyn-Hehe I know what you mean
Yes those little streets can hold the loveliest surprises! 
Hi Rebecca-I know, how cool are they and they’re whole too!
I wonder what you would eat it with! I’m with you! 
Hi Tina-It’s amazingly interesting with so much delicious food, I’m so glad that I got to go!
Hi Brydie-Thank you so much!
You are too kind, lovely!
Hi Sian-Oh how exciting! I can’t wait to read all about it!
They’re incredible aren’t they? xxx
Hi Tin-Thank you! I did indeed
Haha I love that story about the parmesan! Ahh, you just have to love Italians don’t you? 
Hi Linda-Oh you’ll have a wonderful time! How exciting!
Hi Laura-Hehe take me with you!
Hi Claire-We have some in Sydney-come to Sydney!
Hi EJM-Thank you so much!! You are so sweet
How fantastic-you’ll have so much fun! MMmm rillettes are so good! I could
finish off a pot by myself I think
Hi Jay-Oh yes that happened to us once!
Oh there was an amazing orange blossom Fragonard scent-fantastic! 
Thank you so much Jay! xxx
Hi sophia-I know! I was saying “did she really just appear holding a baguette and champagne?”
Hi Matilda-THank you so much Matilda! I know, it was like all that we think that French people do, she was doing! I know, those cakes are incredible. I would have loved to have pulled up a chair and ordered everything
Oh cool! Well I bet you’ll be glaceing pumpkins in not time! 
Yes I wish I had tried some Bresse poultry while there!
Hi Maureen-I can imagine how wonderful that would be for you Maureen!
Thank you!
Hi octie-I think you’d love it
Hi Eha-Yes I think people usually think of Paris but Lyon certainly holds its own!
I’d love to go to Hungary-the Hungarian people that I’ve met are lovely and the food is so delicious! 
Hi Dzintra-Thank you so much! You are too kind!
Oh that would be wonderful!! I hope you get to go! 
Hmmm I’m not sure if they have a lot but they would have some! A girl I traveled with struggled in Italy but not in France 
Hi Joanne-Thank you kindly Joanne!
Aren’t they lovely? You’re right, there is magic 
Hi jenbeans-Hehe I had to, you know, dining with company
Hi Ellen-Oh yes the American markets would be so interesting and agreed Borough are great!
Heaven indeed!
Hi Erin-You’re very welcome Erin, it’s one of mine too!
xxx
Hi Gaby-It’s quite magical indeed
Ooh now I’ve never been to Ireland yet! I know, what’s not to love about a country that has so much good bread, cheese and butter and cakes/pastries! 
You’re painting a gorgeous picture there!
Hi Tandy-Oh cool! It’s definitely worth a visit
Hi Tina-Merci, lovely, merci!
Thank you so much!I didn’t see any rabbits there, to be honest, I was quite fixated with the poultry! Thank you so much, you are so sweet! 
xxx
Hi Baby Sumo-Thank you so much! Hehe I’m getting a bit peckish now too
Hi Uru-Thanks! I think it is hard to make Lyon look anything but photogenic
I have been to the markets in Lyon and they are wonderful. We had one of the best meals I have ever eaten in Lyon.
The markets in Milan are my favourite.
Amazing photos, I felt as if I was there with you every step of the way! Thanks for sharing your wonderful food journey Lorraine.
I love how they present the poultry (probably wouldn’t take my vegetarian friends here though!)
Never heard of an egg soup before, but it does sound intriguing
Oh I am so jealous I can barely write… I am oohing and aahing over the gorgeous food and my romantic notion of Lyon, I am ashamed to say I have always just continued on and skipped over this amazing food province.
It looks like you had the most gorgeous weather for your travels too
The dessert and the cheeses just looks so good!! You would have had to drag me back onto the plane to get me back to Australia
I love your red room! Was Mme Colette Sibilia the same lady interview by Maeve O’meara and Guillaume on SBS?
I would love to go to that market!!! We were taken to 2 wonderful marche in Paris while on our cooking classes and we cooked 3 beautiful dishes with the fresh products one of which was the capon (castrated male Bresse chicken). 
Another exciting adventure and I wonder if I might eat calves head. I love the French and their understanding of food, nose to tail and of course no one does sugar better!
OMG! THANK YOU! Our fourth stop on our upcoming trip is Lyon and I have been charged to find a restaurant; your suggestions are incredible, thank you. We’re taking a cooking class at Atelier de Cuisine Gastronomique Jean-Marc Villard, so excited.
OMG, the cheese platter! I was wondering how many varieties you had on that plate and then you kindly listed them, thank you!
Everything looks and sounds amazing! I really need to visit France soon.
What a fabulous eating city is Lyon! Lucky you–everything looks so good, so FRENCH. And the cheese plate makes me weep.
I love to visit markets everywhere I go. Each is different, a perfect reflection on what is really going on in the quotidian life. Mexican markets are wonderful, bu so are French, Chinese, Thai, Moroccan, Kenyan, and just about everywhere else I’ve ever been. Love them.
Wonderful photos! I would love to visit Lyon.
I love both casual & fine dining, mixing it up
loved this post!! I never went to Lyon. Thanks for taking me there with your beautiful pictures!
Heidi xo
Oh. My. Goodness. How delicious and amazing does all of that look. Are those Russian Dolls at the end actual chocolate – too cute. I’m more of a casual diner myself.
LOVE Lyon and I so want to go back again! Didn’t dine at Café De Fédérations, but two other fabulous bouchons. And you didn’t eat escargot when you were at Les Halles? Naughty naughty! It is tradition. But I am marking down your addresses here for my next trip. – And I never ever do this – leave a link to one of my own blog posts but on this one I must – just to share a few more wonderful addresses in Lyon:
http://lifesafeast.blogspot.fr/2010/05/strawberry-rhubarb-compote-with-genoise.html
http://lifesafeast.blogspot.fr/2010/05/vegetable-risotto-chocolate-sponge-cake.html
Waaaait! Who was that handsome man whose face got cut off?
Did you sleep well in a red room? I wonder how it’s like – maybe it’s not so disturbing once you are in. Just looking at the photo it seems very… busy? Great food pictures and I thoroughly enjoyed your trip!
What an absolutely gorgeous looking trip Lorraine! I am sooo jelly. All these pics are making me so Europe nostalgic!
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[...] and a safe. All M Gallery properties have their own identity-the last one I stayed at was in Lyon in France and the theme there was toile and French bulldogs. The style here is definitely that of a Swiss [...]
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