About two years ago I turned to Mr NQN one day and whispered “honey, I think somehow I became a travel writer!” Although this sounds disingenuous, it was a real moment for me but it was only after I had written about a lot of trips that I realised that I had become what I had always dreamed of being.
However, one thing that I have learned over the years. Even though jetlag may have taken hold, you just need to try to power through it because there are some truly spectacular sights and places to visit that you are privileged to visit. Touching down in Johannesburg and taking a transfer flight to stunning Cape Town, we are indeed in a jetlagged daze. We also make the mistake of checking the time in Sydney (4am-mistake!).
We are headed to Ellerman House, our home away from home for the next two nights. And over the following week we will follow Rockpool chef and owner Neil Perry and his wife Samantha as Neil films webisodes of his tour of South Africa.
The drive towards Ellerman House is all curves and it sits on the slopes facing Lions Head Mountain above Bantry Bay which affords it some truly unforgettable views of the Atlantic seaboard. The Cape Edwardian mansion was named after the shipping magnate Sir John Ellerman. It was his family’s summer residence and in 1992, it was converted into a 9 room, 2 suite and private villa hotel. It is part of the luxurious Relais & Chateaux family.
The main sitting room is opulent, elegant and luxurious. Without a formal lobby, it is designed so that you feel like you are staying in someone’s house and the friendly, relaxed service from all members of staff also contribute to this. There are comfortable couches on which to sink sore bones into. Expansive flower arrangements perfume and beautify at every turn.
South African art plays a large role in the decor and they have several priceless originals including a beautiful Irma Stern painting. She is recognised as South Africa’s most sellable artist with her paintings fetching up to $14 million ZAR or $1.6million AUD. The dining room has a John Meyer painting and other artists like Pierneef also feature.
I walk down to my room downstairs which is number 11, the East Wing suite and open the double doors. I take a sharp intake of breath. Even through the haze of jetlag and the need to sleep, what strikes me is how beautiful it is. The main room has an eight person dining table setting with a glass top and leopard print covered chairs. A welcome refreshment of fruit salad greets me along with some house made iced tea.
There are complimentary spirits with scotch, gin and house made lime cordial and if you prefer other spirits, just tell them and they will stock them. The top drawer holds all of the accoutrements for making your own gin and tonic and the second drawer holds a range of complimentary snacks from coconut dusted marshmallows, lollies, chocolates and potato crisps.
It is dark when we check in so I am excited to see what the view outside will look like tomorrow morning but taking a peek past the curtains, I see the faint twinkle of lights in the distance. The East Wing Suite also has garden access through one of its two balcony doors and there are sun lounges so that you can sit and soak up the sun like a cat at leisure. The 26m2 wraparound balcony extends around the room which is a total of 120m2.
I walk through to the bedroom and pause in front of the king sized bed. Each room is decorated differently with different colour schemes to each and this one is decorated in golden and metallic hues. Heated carpet warms my feet. There is a second sitting room adjacent to the bedroom and from there, two chaise lounges sit side by side with books in between them meant for leafing. And if the view gets too much, there are two televisions in each room.
The walk in wardrobe is sizeable and leads to the oversize bathroom, a cream marble beauty with a bath to the right and two sinks in front. In the far corner is a toilet and bidet decked out with magazines. Amenities are by South African brand Charlotte Rhys and include a vanity kit with cotton tips, pads, shower cap and sewing kit, soap, shampoo, conditioner, lotion, bath foam and bath salts. There are robes and slippers to envelop after a bubble filled bath.
The shower has an enormous, old fashioned shower head the size of a frying pan. International plugs mean no adaptors are necessary and there is also free wifi and a complimentary laundry service which picks up at 10:30am and returns it with turn down wrapped in tissue paper in a box.
Ellerman House’s cellar has 7,500 bottles of wine and the personable Veronica Canha-Hibbert is the executive chef. The open kitchen means that guests can walk past and see them preparing the meals and often request certain dishes which they are happy to fulfil as part of their ”guest centred catering” edict. The food served at Ellerman House could feature items such as brulée chicken liver parfait, fragrant pork belly confit, kalamansi lime cheesecake or banoffee millionaire and a new menu is created every day.
Turndown in the room has already been performed and they lay down a cloth and slippers. A Lindt chocolate is put on the pillow and there’s also a three day forecast (that incidentally mirrors the weather that we have just left in Sydney). I place a wake up call and an order of a pot of tea for the morning as there isn’t a kettle in the room. I can’t resist and take a bath even though the hour is very late and I light the mini candle provided and soak away any soreness from the flight. I climb into bed and I squeal with delight. No, it wasn’t Mr NQN, but it was a knitted hot water bottle slipped in under the doona that kept me warm the whole night instead.
The next day after a wonderful but brief snooze I have my tray of tea waiting for me and I do some work. I should mention that over the next two days, whenever I order tea, they deliver it anywhere on the grounds and I never have to specify how I like it or what tea I would like as they just remember. Excitedly, I open the curtains periodically while waiting for sunrise which doesn’t happen until 7:40am. And it’s worth the wait as the sun slowly casts a glow of light onto the Atlantic coast and the view of white houses lining the beach and light sand conspire to make the coastline of Cape Town one of the most eye catching views.
I go down for breakfast and join Neil and his wife Samantha at their table. They’re both very down to earth and approachable and are as excited as we all are about being in South Africa. For many of us, it is our first time here and we had no idea what to expect.
The buffet sits ready and it’s full of yogurts, pastries, fruit and cereal. There is also strawberry juice, smoothie and orange juice. I opt for a croissant, buttery and layered with some jam and a strawberry juice.
The a la carte menu offers more substantial offerings from hot food to Bircher muesli and as a new convert from hot breakfasts to Continental, I go for the Bircher which is quite good indeed with a nice crunch of almonds, soft raisins, a sprinkling of cinnamon and a drizzle of honey. There are also halved cape gooseberries which give it an occasional tart mouthful.
Chefs Neil Perry and Veronica Canha-Hibbert
Today is the first day of filming so we hit the streets of Cape Town in search of ingredients. Veronica tells me that the food here brings cultural influences from Italy, Portugal and Greece and you can also purchase a fairly wide range of pan Asian ingredients. Neil and Andy Evans, the chef from Spice Temple, pick up ingredients for the food that they’ll be cooking using local ingredients.
Today on the menu is crayfish, yellowtail and kingklip fish all done on the braai or South African barbeque. Veronica already has some ingredients in her kitchen but there are some that he will need to pick up and before long, a basket is filled with ingredients and we head back to Ellerman House.
Neil takes menu notes; whole yellowtail fish and Neil and Andy prepping the food
Neil explains that the Yellowtail fish is a fish with a strong flavour and to balance this, he is using fermented yellow beans which will stand up to the taste of the fish. The kingklip however is a fish he is unfamiliar with. Veronica likens it to
ling or monk fish which is a fish that takes a longer time to cook. For this he marinates it in a mixture of ginger, garlic, chilli, lime, lemon and rosemary. The local crayfish will have a spice mixture much like garam masala.
He and Andy quickly prep the ingredients in the Ellerman House kitchen and then move to the private villa where they are filming the webisodes. The braai turns out to be a Weber barbecue, not unlike what we would get at home in Australia and he explains the ingredients while they film. As for all of us standing around, the smell claws at our hungry tummies and we anticipate the food eagerly. And when it hits the table with its expansive ocean views, we eagerly dig in.
A table with a view
The yellowtail is strong and pungent with yellow bean and the pickled thinly sliced, sweet cabbage salad is a delicious contrast to the rich bean marinade.
The king clip fish comes as large, thick fillets that are soft and full of aromatics and chilli. It is served with a roasted vegetable salad including purple yams, sweet potato, onion and fennel which has been caramelised until sweet.
The local crayfish is lovely and tender and with a quick flick of the fork, the tail meat is released.
Rainbow and Table Mountain
A quick city tour is arranged although there are the occasional bursts of rain. Table Mountain commands attention from above and and from high up you can see the stretches of ocean that wind and bend for as far as the eye can see, the waters blue and foamy.
The Malay Quarter
In between patches of precipitation, we stop at The Malay Quarter. When the Dutch used to sail from Europe to India to trade spices on the spice route, they needed somewhere in between the two places to rest and this became the area in which they stayed. The buildings that they built were then later allocated to the slaves that they brought over from Malaysia and as a result, it is called the Malay Quarter. This area is signified with the bright coloured buildings.
Of course no discussion of South Africa can ignore its past. Our guide Owen tells us that under apartheid (which means segregation) there were three levels of race in South Africa. White, coloured (mixed race) and black. Under apartheid, each race was paid differently with the white being paid the most, then the coloured or mixed race and then the black race. “It is better but we have a long way to go” he says and we all nod soberly. There are reminders of both sentiments that we see continually.
Where Nelson Mandela addressed the nation after being released from prison
A quick change back at Ellerman House and we’re off to dinner at The Twelve Apostles. No, not a structure (although there are twelve apostles which are rock formations as part of Table Mountain) it is a restaurant which is part of the Red Carnation chain of luxury hotels and part of the Leading Hotels of the World.
Chef Henrico Grobbelaar
The Azure restaurant on the first floor is a striking room with luxurious printed fabrics, a warm fireplace and gleaming surfaces with blue tones reflecting the view of the water below. It specialises in seafood and chef Henrico Grobbelaar has put together a list of what he describes as what he would serve to a chef. Dessert is chocolate mousse because he says that no woman can ever resist chocolate mousse.
Scallops ZAR 130/$14.99AUD
The scallops are three fine specimens that are enormous and perfectly cooked. They come with a truffled cauliflower puree, saffron sofritto, lemon tomato and Ras el Hanout praline (although I didn’t really get a crunch from a praline). I enjoyed the scallops particularly when paired with the truffled cauliflower puree.
Kingclip ZAR 155/$17.87AUD
The kingklip, the same fish that Neil cooked that afternoon is a substantial piece of fish, and Neil murmurs about how perfectly cooked it is. It is pan roasted with a truffled cannellini puree, mushroom and mung beans and red miso veal jelly. Chef Grobbelaar explains that although the kingklip is considered moderately endangered, he buys it from a supplier that only catches hake and the kingclip is a by-catch of the hake and Neil congratulates him on doing this.
Sorbet in spoons with a dry ice effect
Springbok fillet ZAR165/$19AUD
I wish I had enough room for this but we did have enormous serves and this was our second main. The two springbok fillets (a type of gazelle)are cooked quite rare which makes them very tender and they are paired with a celeriac cream, roasted radish, orange tapioca squirts and sultana caper paste which gives it a tangy richness. Incidentally, the prices are very reasonable and about half what you would pay in Sydney.
Mocha mousse ZAR75/$8.54AUD
The mocha mousse comes as a slender rectangle that at first looks like pate. It’s sweet coffee milk chocolate and comes with small pieces of moist hazelnut cake, a nut crumble dacquoise and a delectable Amarula custard. The Amarula is a cream liqueur much like Baileys.
Springbok shot
When in South Africa, you must do shots of what the locals do. The Springbok is a rather alarming looking shot withDe Kuyper Crème De Menthe and Amarula cream on top. I have to pace myself, after all I get drunk very easily but I have to say that the shot is very, very drinkabe and dangerously so! 
It’s quite a start to our South African adventure!
So tell me Dear Reader, what is one job you’ve always dreamed of having? And have you ever been to South Africa?
NQN was a guest of South African Tourism
Ellerman House
180 Kloof Street Cape Town 8001, South Africa
www.ellerman.co.za/
Escape to the Cape Tours
http://www.escapetothecape.co.za/
Azure
The Twelve Apostles
Victoria Road, Camps Bay, Cape Town, 8001, South Africa
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56 Comments | Add your own
Gorgeous, gorgeous photos! I’ve never been to South Africa but I’m ready to hop on the next flight!
So enjoyed your blog today! Glad you enjoyed our Mother City!
That hotel is amazing! Amazing. If I could live there, I would die happy. Great post!
I’d love to be a travel writer or a food writer! I think it would be the perfect way to finish out my old age…lol.
I’ve never been to So. Africa, but my dear neighbors just left Monday for three weeks there, so I will have to get the scoop from them when they return…
xxoo,
RMW
This hotel looks amazing. And the whole post very interesting. I’d definitely try this shot, hahaha
Oh my god!!! I am overwhelmed by this story!!! It is really not what I thought about South Africa. The photos are amazing, I am so pleased you have taken so many! How spoiled to be travel with Neil Perry too!
Oh and I am so going to the Azure Restaurant! Yum!
I don’t know Lorraine, your job sounds pretty dreamy, I don’t know that I could top it.
I’ve never been to South Africa. My mum spent some time in Durban in the 1960s on her way to Australia, her new home. It looks like a beautiful place.
So thrilled you made it to South Africa my lady. A very special place in my heart, not only visually, inspirationally, culturally… and the culinary! Incredible. What an experience you had. Springbok…so envious. Looks absolutely amazingly prepared. Makes me want to escape to the Cape again soon. I hope you were also lucky to discover the restaurant Cape to Cuba in Kalk Bay! It was quite a treat!
Dear NQN – I thoroughly enjoyed your account of your trip to South Africa- I have never been but will put in on my agenda now –
Cooking your mushroom lasagne this weekend By the way – cheers
Mr Bao has also told me about South Africa and how much he loves it…but because I’ve never been, I’ve just brushed him off.
But now I think I’m starting to understand why he likes it so much! They have such pretty buildings, weather is amazing and the FOOD OMG the FOOD
seafood especially hehe
Don’t laugh but my dream job would probably be along the lines of food or travel writing as well
But i’m still quite inexperience so before I do that, I’d also like to put my marketing degree into use and work in the food and beverage industry and do marketing there ~ there’s still a long way to go! But i’m gonna try my best! 
Up until I was about 14 years old, I wanted to be a geologist: adventures, travel in search of treasures. I was serious, I knew minerals, geography, landscapes of the continents like a pro. I was considering university, and planning my expeditions. That’s when my parents decided to take action: they started to tell me off all disadvantages of this profession. By the time I was 15 they lost all the arguments and gave up. Little did they know that in a few months I would meet my future then husband and that would completely change who I wanted to be…
Although, I still love to travel… expedition way… 
What an incredible vacation my friend! First that hotel seems like the lap of luxury! Heated carpet? Make your own drinks? Breakfast buffet from heaven? Nice one
)
I can’t believe you got to see Neil Perry in action, what a culinary idol! And the beautiful backdrops and scenery are stunning!
Aaaah, can’t wait to visit South Africa (maybe for a rugby match
Cheers
Choc Chip Uru
Oh my goodness what a wonderful experience. I’ve never been to South Africa and I never realised it was so pretty. A friend is there at the moment and sending the most beautiful photos back.
It looks gorgeous! I love the fairytale feel of the Malay quarter. I have never been to South Africa.
If I could stay where you stayed I would deifnitely go to Cape Town. Beautiful photos and that lunch table with a view is divine.
That bircher looks exactly like how I dream it to be – thick, thick, and full of delicious things!
Hi NQN.
First, minor correction… “$14 million ZAR…” symbol for the ZAR currency is ‘R’.
Have I been to South Africa?? Hmm… I live in Johannesburg, SA.
Beautiful pictures of the food and of Cape Town. Did you try any typical/traditional South African food and dishes like pap (mielie meal)[our staple food], mashonzha (mopane worms, mala mogudu (tripe), umqombothi (beer from fermented maize) or potjiekos (Afrikaans stew)?
WOW! What a brilliant trip and that food looks incredible.
I wanted to be a journalist who travels or an editor of a magazine. I went completely off path for a while there but am slowly moving back into the world of writing… maybe one day in the future I’ll fulfil one of those dream jobs.
Are you ever at home??!? LOL
But then again, home can wait when you have such spectacular places like this to visit.
Amazing Lorraine. Do you pinch yourself sometimes? I’m pinching myself on your behalf!
I was born in South Africa and left from Cape Town on a boat to travel the world in 1979. Lucky you! The restaurants in South Africa are fantastic, and the food you showed is mouthwatering. I look forward to the rest of your tour – I presume there is more?
HI Africanaussie! Yep, there definitely is more on South Africa I promise!
We went to South Africa in March – I wish I could have read your post first! Love it : )
How wonderful to wake up one day and realise a dream you had has come true and you are now living it. I’ve been to Cape Town and it’s so beautiful. I’ve also found that the worst jet-lag ever seems to be the flight from Jo-berg to Sydney. I do hope Neil Perry is warming up to the cameras. I don’t want to sound mean but I find him so stiff and boring on camera and his hair-do is so distracting and I just want to reach my hand through the TV screen with a pair of scissors and cut off that ridiculous pony-tail. (Pardon me – I must be hormonal!) xx
mmm that kingfish! What a dream, I’d love to visit South Africa, Cape Town has long been on my list.
Heidi xo
WOW! What an incredible trip and opportunity – definitely worth ignoring jet lag for
I’ve never been to South Africa, or anywhere in Africa (or Europe, or America…). One day!
Absolutely delighted to travel with you to Capetown where I have always wanted to go! Am peagreen with envy it was in company of Neil Perry to boot and can’t wait for the next ‘episodes’! Have always had a huge respect for the guy and his knowledge!! Ellerman House is very much ‘my kind’ of place! Charming and rather typical of the Cape area. As a 4-5 year old I was sure I wanted to become an architect: that segued for a brief while into dress designing – no medicine in sight at that stage
! As for decades I had ‘done’ all the travel arrangements for series of large family companies, I was actually offered the position of chief tour guide for boutique tours by our large travel company in Oz at the cessation of my first marriage: guess I was not ‘together enough’ at that stage to accept – pity, our journeys would have been somewhat similar, even tho’ I probably would not have been writing about this 
!
With all my travels too!
YEARN being a travel writer with a UNIQUE view!
Enjoy experiencing various places, local foods …as visually works for me!
Always keen and eager uncovering that local recipe with local history!
Briefly in Capetown on the Queen Mary in January. Amazing, beautiful place & the coastal bays e.g your Bantry Bay, would be breathtaking places to live with the Table Mountain backdrop. I need the sea in my life. Looking forward hopefully for a couple more bloggetts from your visit. You give us a bit of everything Lorraine, from views to victuals, with personalities in between. Thankyou
What a treat to what Neil Perry cook! South Africa has never really been on my list of places to see but it looks like a fascinating place.
South Africa looks like a gorgeous place to visit: magnificent sights, comfy and elegant accommodations, and the food looks utterly glorious!
I’ve always wanted to visit Cape Town. So glad I could make the trip with you. And oh my, the seafood on the barbie. I mean, the braai. Looks wonderful as does everything about that lovely and gracious-looking hotel.
Jane Goodall. I always wanted her job. Now I want yours. Just kidding.
Sort of.
What a stunning log of photos! I love seeing my country through your eyes, and listening to your words describe things so familiar. Eating out in South Africa is so reasonable
Is it OK to say your job Lorraine!
what a fantastic trip, and I certainly how we hear more about your week. Neils recipes are always great and I’m interested how he puts his spin on this cuisine. Oh, and a hot water bottle is almost as good as a husband any day 
What a wonderful holiday and what a fantastic job you have.
We’re all envious.
Welcome to my country and enjoy every minute of it.
I’ve been to South Africa twice and it’s amazing. I love it. I hope you got to see some wildlife. That’s the best part of going!!
K xx
It’s such an amazing looking country…..such wild ruggedness abutting culture and beauty. Great photos!
so pleased to see a bottle of our great Bouchard Finlayson Sauvignon blanc Reserve on the table at Azure (Twelve Apostles) – next time come and visit us at the Vineyard near the coastal town of Hermanus – it is Whale watching season now and we have a variety of excellent wine to choose from
Thank you for your stunning review of my home town! I am truly blessed and honored to call Cape Town home.
How can you come to SA and not let your SA Fans know – I would have loved to meet you and shown you a few of my favourite eat spots! Next time!!
Lorraine, I am truly jealous of your fabulous jetsetting lifestyle
I have dreamt of being a food writer haha.. and the part I like most about it is the eating! Hehe.
Hi Samantha! Aww shucks thank you so much!! I would have loved to have met some SA readers!
Next time!
huhu Lorraine! =)
Thats looks like a kings castle to me, especially the thought of lemon cordial makes it more inviting. ^.^
For some reason your page is loading without a background and the rigth sidebar is the text today. is that only me, or something wrong? tried to refresh and open in new browser but didnt help. just wondering and thought i ll let you know.
What an amazing hotel! And, that view is stunning. I have never been to South Africa…on my one-day list!
You are a great travel writer. I know so little about South Africa and you have opened a new portal to that exotic location. Great hotel and lovely food.
I LOVE South Africa and Cape Town in particular. It was my honeymoon destination and high on our list of places to go back too…hopefully sooner rather than later!
I loved South Africa when we went to stay with an old school friend of mine. Cape Town is fabulous and I loved the colours of the Malay Quarter. The food looks wonderful. I know you like a sip or two so are you going to Franschoek? Only an hour fron Cape town. So beautiful and wonderful small vineyards. Mr Glam and I had a fabulous time there. GG
Wow, where do I start? Absolutely loved reading all of this and am keen to see what’s next on your SA trip . Brings back very fond memories , I won a whirlwind 7 day trip for 10 people to SA in 2004, the memories are still so vivid , loved everything about it. From the beautiful landscapes, oceans, flora , fauna, food and it’s people ! Cape Town was our favourite and the view from atop Table Mountain is a must see. Another great experience is going to the southernmost tip of SA and seeing where the two great oceans , Atlantic & Pacific meet. Just awesome ! Going on a Safari , hoping to spot the Big 5 , Sun City and the Wine Regions. Learning some of the history and feeling a little sad re: Apartheid .
Love the look of Ellerman House, it’s superb. How cool to be with Neil Perry & crew, I love the food at Rockpool, wonder if some ideas/dishes will filter through to any of his restaurants?
In high school I wanted to be an Air Hostess but in those days you had to be tall , sadly I missed out lol. I don’t think they’re quite as strict now, at least not on some of the flights we’ve been on lately . I love to sing so dreamed of becoming a superstar, haha so funny. Now , I would love to travel the world eating ,drinking cooking and discovering . Yes, I think that would be my ideal job!
Cape Town looks incredible! Rivals Sydney in the beauty stakes. What a lucky, lucky woman you are! Enjoy
Wow!Welcome to South Africa and our gorgeous CT! I am a great fan of your blog, especially the travelling pieces and the fact that you are in SA is so thrilling! Here’s hoping you have a wonderful stay!
HI everyone! Thanks for your lovely comments on this story
And a big hello to my South African readers too! 
xxx
I am delighted to read your review about my beautiful country and hope it will inspire many others to visit! South African boasts a rich cultural history, exceptional food and the warmest people on the planet!
What a wonderful experience for you! All the food looks great, and with Neil Perry too, wow!!
Wow! Now that is a trip to write about! Fabulous location and amazing food. I want!!
I have been wanting to go to SA ever since I bought a book about cool restaurants in Cape Town 2 years ago. Reading this particular post has motivated me to make it happen. Thank you.
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