Love these scarecrows!
Town 1: Tilba
We were on the third day of our Sydney to Melbourne Road Trip and doing quite a bit of driving on this particular day. We had mentally prepared for the long drive – I had drinks at the ready and snacks as well as wipes for my hand washing OCD. Our first stop after breakfast is the Tilba region of which there is Central Tilba and Tilba Tilba. Central Tilba’s main street is where most of the shopping and eating action takes place and we start off our tour at the ABC Tilba cheese factory where we stop off for some morning tea snacking. At the front counter there are a range of cheeses with tastings for all varieties available. Mr NQN and I try some as sampling is encouraged and my favourite is the chive and the Tilba gold where he likes the Olive cheese.
There’s all sorts of useful kitchen items as well as their own honey which are also sampleable. I try the round box honey that reminds me of a golden syrup which I think would be perfect on some crumpets so I choose this along with some ginger lollies and I admit rather randomly, a cling wrap cutter (well I do make Mr NQN sandwiches every day!).
I lament not having a fridge as we’re travelling as there is a three layer cheese wedge for sale that combines the chive cheese with a layer of sun dried tomato cheese and another cheese. Of course the alternative was just to buy it and eat the whole wedge (ok not that odd for me) but we had a lot of eating to do that day as you’ll see…
A Penny Farthing outside a store
Rose & Sparrow Tea Rooms
We then head out of the store and up the street and spot some nice homewares in some stores. It reminds me of Arrowtown which is a gold mining town in New Zealand. There’s Rose & Sparrow which was recommended by the SMH Good Food Guide so we stop for lunch. The menu is on the chalkboard inside and there are a lot of gluten free options. Mr NQN chooses a burger and I go for the mandarin and almond gluten free cake for morning tea which reminds me of those lovely flourless orange cakes. All of the cakes are homemade here. The service is not particularly friendly and we get our order after everyone else, even the people that arrive after us.
The coffee is great and I try the cake given to us with a fetching nasturtium. It’s quite tart and for those like a tangy citrus (Mr NQN doesn’t). It’s also covered in a tangy mandarin syrup and served with cream. It’s quite a large slice though and we have trouble finishing it.
I try some of Mr NQN’s Tilly burger and it’s not bad with lots of fresh salad in it as well as strings of fresh beetroot. He finds the bun a bit too tough and I think it could do with more relish (most of it has fallen out of the bottom and sits on the plate below) but otherwise it’s good value and fresh.
While we eat, we watch a magpie stalk a stack of plates on a nearby table…
Town 2: Merimbula
Our next stop is at Merimbula where we drive through the town and towards the beach as Mr NQN feels a surf coming on which is rather handy as we have brought his surfboard along. He drives to a lookout and we see the magic words “Kiosk” so we stop there as it looks charming and has a great view. But wait! There is a film crew walking around the converted shipping container and we walk past Dermott Brereton who strokes a surfboard while staring out at the water. He is there shooting an episode of Getaway. There is a pump pack of free sunscreen (we notice things like tomato sauce are free when we drive here which is never the case in Sydney and now free sunscreen!) and there’s also chicken salt for the hot chips-heaven! I order a cup of tea while Mr NQN opts for a caramel milkshake and a surf.
Madame Flavour Tea
Caramel Milkshake
Vegetarian panini $8
The tea is a Madame Flavour Earl Grey and I also order a vegetarian panini which comes with grilled eggplant, zucchini and sun dried tomato. It’s not bad although it needs some pesto which they seem to have left out. There are also local pies and sausage rolls from Pambula for $4.50 and a bacon and double egg panini.
On the left there’s a daily guessing competition where people can win a free cup of coffee with the warning line “Internet users are not cool”. Mr NQN comes back after an hour of surfing. The Getaway episode is the talk of the locals who frequently stop by. A local stops by and remarks “Good that we’ve got this brown water now, there’s nothing to film now so we won’t be overrun”. Despite that remark, they are friendly though!
Town 3: Eden
A slush puppy machine twirls and a short time later we’re in Eden where the seafood industry is prominent. Fish & chips by the wharf are said to be a tradition here so we stop by Hooked on Seafood which is an old style fish & chips shop complete with a fish poster showing the different varieties of fish caught. The sign that beckoned to us was “Fresh local prawns” and we eagerly lined up. There were two local prawn varieties, a king prawn and a school prawn. The king prawns aren’t really that big but when I ask the girl behind the counter which is better of the two she admits that she hasn’t tried them so she offers me one of each to try.
It’s a no brainer with the king prawns being sweeter and fuller of flavour than the bland school prawns. There are also fried items such as Sea Shanties for $1, crab claw balls for $2, salt & pepper squid for $3 and sea scallops for $1.50 so we buy some of these too along with some calamari and chips as Mr NQN is hungry after the surf. There’s locally caught flathead, pink ling, tiger flathead and Jackass Morwong (don’t you just love that name?).
Calamari & Chips $6
The crumbed calamari is tender and delicious an whilst the chips are old fashioned fat chips. The tartare is creamy and not too tangy. The prawns are both of our favourites and sitting on the wharf with a multitude of beady eyed and hungry seagulls eating these prawns is a great way to pass the afternoon.
Salt & pepper calamari, a crab claw and scallop
The deep fried selection isn’t as promising as it’s heavily doused in table salt. The crab claw isn’t real crab of course but it’s crunchy on the outside and soft inside. The best of the lot is the battered sea scallop which is soft and delicious inside its oily batter pocket. The salt and pepper squid is thick with a hard batter and tastes mostly of salt and no pepper (but for $3 we were willing to gamble on it).
Town 4: Mallacoota
We cross the border from NSW to Victoria where we reach our destination for the night: Karbeethong Lodge in Mallacoota. Set beside the lake the grounds are gorgeous and guests wander in and out and explore the lake front and the drawing rooms.
The Drawing Room
The view looking out onto Mallacoota Inlet
The rooms however err on the basic rather than luxury side and the one we are assigned to is quite chilly indeed. This is the first time we’ve had to use the heater on the whole trip.
Mallacoota is a small town with widely differing seasonal population. In Winter the population is 900 and in Summer the population is 10,000. Prior to arriving we were told that there is really only one place to dine here and that was at a place called Lucy’s and were warned by many than Mallacoota was not the best place for a foodie to travel. We were also told that we needed to stop by earlier in the day to order some special handmade dumplings for that evening.
We stopped in out of curiosity as we are still full from the fish and chips. After all how many Chinese restaurants are also second hand stores and DVD stores? The sign outside saying local abalone with noodles $20 was also drawing us in. Lucy is a small woman in a bandana who is busy tending to her food. At 6pm it appears many of the residents of Mallacoota are already there and in walks a retired gentleman who excitedly says to her “We’re here for the Peking Duck!”. We asked her about the dumplings and she tells us that yes they usually sell out but tonight should be ok. I let Mr NQN know but we’re both quite full from the fish and chips so we’re uncertain as to whether we’ll come back or not.
We drive back to the lodge and after checking in and surveying our room we chat to the manager of Karbeethong Lodge, Patrick who tells us that Lucy’s serves local abalone and that they have a little farm out the back where they grow their own vegetables and herbs that they use in the food. With those few lines we’re sold! We take the quick drive there and there’s Italian opera playing. Inside there are lacquered Chinese tables with an imposing jaguar mid prowl with an incongruous orange stack hat bicycle helmet under one paw. There is also an outside deck area.
Second hand store
DVD rental
And sure enough there’s a room full of DVDs to rent and beyond that there’s the vegetable garden and a second hand area. We order and pay at the counter and I order abalone and sea urchin with home made rice noodles as well as a serving of six dumplings. I order a soft drink and it’s a no name branded drink. Interestingly, the Peking duck here is served in 4 courses and is the princely sum of $27.95 for 4 people. We wish we had pre booked it (and pre booked stomach space) just to see what it was like.
Abalone and sea urchin noodles $25
Lucy sets the noodles down and says “That’s the abalone and that’s the sea urchin”. I try the noodles and whilst they’re full of vegetables and quite a generous portion, I’m not a huge raw bean sprout eater and the broth tastes more seasoned by soy without the added flavours of garlic, ginger or chilli. Mr NQN likes it though and finishes it.
Pork dumplings 6 for $10
The dumplings come out as 6 huge parcels and they have a delicate skin and a generous amount of pork, chive and water chestnut filling. We’re given some chilli and garlic sauce which is quite sweet, like a sweet chilli sauce with garlic. Together they’re rather good indeed and I can see why they sell out of them. Indeed some customers that arrive at 8pm while we are eating are told that there are no dumplings left.
We sleep peacefully that night, having finally reached Victoria. What is up next? Victoria unlocks some of its secrets!
So tell me Dear Reader, are your holidays action packed or relaxing affairs?
ABC Tilba Factory
Bate Street, Central Tilba
Tel: +61 (02) 44737 387
Rose & Sparrow
Bate Street, Central Tilba
Tel: +61 (02) 4473 7229
Bar Beach Cafe
Off Lake Street, Merimbula, NSW
Tel: +61 (410) 698 497
Hooked on Seafood
253 Imlay St, Eden NSW
Tel: +61 (02) 6496 1659
Karbeethong Lodge
16 Schnapper Point Drive, Mallacoota, Victoria
Tel: +61 (03) 5158 0411
Lucy’s
64 Maurice Avenue, Mallacoota, Victoria
Tel: +61 (03) 5158 0666.
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43 Comments | Add your own
Oh, Lorraine! Even though I’m dreading finishing my travel in ten days, this post has made me so homesick! I used to go to Merimbula (Mandeni, to be exact) every year in January with my family and grandparents, and so fish and chips at Eden and Tilba’s cheese shop (and I think there’s an old-fashioned candy store there too?) were yearly events.
As for the type of holiday? Well, these past four months have been a mix of action-packed and what you could call “relaxing”, but has really be “bad-toe-enforced sitting on my toosh whilst wishing I could be exploring”…
I nearly have to stop reading you because I’m so absolutely jealous. But of course I shall not; I love sharing a slice of your life daily.
I hope you are as happy and delighted with your happenings as you appear to be.
I love your blog! Not just because it’s well written, or because it’s about food! Also because it’s Australian. My uncle and aunt live in Loch, Victoria, and own the Victoria Street Gallery. I’ve long harboured a desire to go to Oz, and especially to sample the food – your blog is a pretty decent substitute!
I’m feeling so hungry now. Love the south coast ,so pictureesque and green!
You take the BEST roadtrips.
I love vicariously traveling with you! 
Hai! I like a both types of holidays. Our last, my husband and I drove up to Forster for a long weekend of pure relaxation. That was until we decided to visit a waterfall that wasn’t sign-posted well to warn you that the road there was only suitable for 4WD (we were in my little Mazda 2). Other than that there was lots swimming and sunbaking.
But previous to that we have had holidays where we come home feeling like another holiday we’ve done so much.
Btw, Happy Easter to you and Mr NQN
Oh, I forgot: I love the bit at the beginning about the OCD handwashing – I’m a bit the same. Whenever on holidays I always have with me both a little bottle of hand sanitiser and a packet of anti-bacterial wipes…
What a fun getaway! Those views of the beach in Merimbula are absolutely lovely, Lorraine!
Gorgeous photos! I want a caramel milkshake – yum!
You visited some really nice looking places. Those king prawns looked great and very succulent. I totally love the Lyrebird Ahead sign, its a classic.
I’m crazy missing fish and chips over here! Ship some across Lorraine!
How long will you be in Melbourne for? Man, again, jealous. And you’ve been one very busy girl! Enjoy your roadtrip! I hope Mr NQN is doing all the driving.
I love the kind of holiday you describe. Plenty of relaxation, exercise, and eating, without being too planned and full-on. I wish I could try that Peking Duck too – that’s a bargain price!
Soemtimes a bit of both. My husband and I are complete opposites – so I like relaxing, luxury and time out – he likes, mud, action and chaos… It makes for interesting times!!
What a lovely get away Lorraine. Anthony’s family have holiday houses down at Merimbula but I haven’t been down yet. I really want to go to relax and try all those food. Mmmmm…
Hi Lorraine, I got tired just reading your post! I still remember the Cabramatta tour and how pleased I was with all my buys and what we ate. While you must have been super tired, from the pics I could see it was super rewarding!
Next time you are visiting Mallacoota try staying at Gipsy Point Lakeside Resort.Beautiful luxury accomadation and very good food.My husband and Isatayed there for a short break and cann’t wait to go back
nice road trip. i love Tilba Tilba. it’s such a cute place
Wow – that is an action packed day. Our holidays depend entirely on who is organising them! If it’s up to me, we’ll be somewhere peaceful, quiet and without a whole lot to do. Hubby will still find 3,692 places to visit and things to do though LOL.
Love this leg of the tour! Shame about the lack of in-car fridge! D’oh!
Our holidays are basically Though I hope soon we find a holiday where we do get to relax now the kids are getting older..
With 3 kids under 6…they are usually action packed! Suprisingly though, we just returned from Barbados and it was a ‘full’ vacation but the most relaxing one…ever. And we took the kids with us!
beautiful. beautiful food and beverages, beautiful weather, beautiful accomodations, beautiful knickknacks. what a great trip.
I had friends that used to live in Bermagui many years ago, so this trip takes me back , stopped at most of these places, the cheeses from this region are the real stars. It’s a beautiful part of the country and well worth the drive.
I usually organise our holidays and while my husband just wants to ‘relax’, I’m able to get in a few excursions that I feel need to be experienced.
What a day!!
Nothing like a good Aussie road trip! Though I’d prefer it if someone else was driving so I can relax!
What a fun road trip. I remember doing a similar roadtrip years ago (pre-blog and pre-kids). I remember visiting some beautiful gardens in Tilba (is Tilba Tilba the same place?), and having fish and chips in Eden
. Don’t think we stopped in Mallacoota though.
I like a mix of both, some action and lots of relaxation.
I totallu love the scarecrows! ;o)
Oh that blue blue water! I want it! you can keep the cheese and all the other foodstuffs just give me some blue, clean water to relax in!
This is a nice tour, seems a long day… but fun to stop and visit places…
I think I like to visit Australia one day.
Having handwipes is not OCD, it’s a product of having a Chinese mother. As is buying a cling wrap cutter. Trust me, I know, LOL.
Wonderful photos, thanks for sharing. The water shots are particularly gorgeous!
I hear Malacoota is really nice. I have a friend that used to stay there and she says its just lovely!!
The south coast is beautiful isn’t it. Tilba is such a lovely little town, nestled in rolling green hills. I have some lovely memories of the cheese factory.
Great post! I love visiting little country towns and the little shops they have with homemade food and knick knacks.
I like my holidays to be filled with a little bit of both relaxation and action.
Yum nothing beats fresh prawns. They look delicious.
Shame about the cheese, it sounds fantastic.
Looks lovely, the Penny farthing is awesome! My Easter road trip was sort of both – went down to Italy on Thursday and found out the electricity was turned off so we stayed at a hotel (it’s too cold at the moment still to sleep in an unheated house) then yesterday did a spring clean (we were staying for free if we helped do it), lay in the sun all arvo wearing blankets and then this morning had a fight with Mr. SSS and drove myself (5 hours!) home!
Great tour, I am really getting to see Australia by reading your blog! That 3 layered cheese sounded good. I get very frustrated tearing cling film and will now only buy one particular brand and I reinforce the box with sellotape so that the cylinder doesn’t get pulled out of position. What an anorak I must be.
wow what a day trip :O)
happy easter lorraine
Our holidays are no where near as food packed as yours. I was positively salivating and chewing my fingers off in anticipation of the next food stop.
I love Tilba cheese …
I must do this road trip. I went to Merimbula & Eden as a child 30 yrs ago. My mum’s cousin is(or was) an Abalone diver and he got rich from it , I think he still lives in Mallacoota.
Sorry, you totally lost me after saying you went to THE TILBA CHEESE FACTORY!
OMG. Awesome. Cheese. Awesome.
OOh Merimbula looks like such a cute town. What an awesome roadtrip it must have been – I really want to do the reverse, from Melb to Sydney
Hi Hannah-Oh really! What a coincidence!
yes there was one there too! You’ve had a great last few months!
Hi Julianna-Aww no!
hehe thankyou! 
I am, I love it! 
Hi Jeff-Thankyou so much!
Aww you are too kind! 
Hi Jacqui-It is gorgeous isn’t it!
Hi Krista-I love roadtripping! thanks darling!
Hi Toni-Hai! Oh wow, sounds very exciting! Hehe yes some holidays require a holiday to recover from! Happy Easter to you and your family!
Ahh good to know I’m not the only one!
Hi Faith-Thankyou so much Faith!
Isn’t it pretty? And the local was saying that it didn’t look v good with the brown water!
Hi Cakelaw-hehe my favourite flavour is iced coffee but caramel is a close second!
Hi Mark-Thanks!
I know, we’ve never seen a lyre bird ahead sign before!
Hi Sweets By Vicky-hehe sure!
We were just in Melbourne for a short while-2 nights. I have been busy and yes Mr NQN has been doing the driving. thankyou!
Hi MrsDesperate-I know, who can say no to peking Duck for that price!
Hi Joy-Hehe it would and we sound the same!
Hi Phuoc-Thankyou!
Oh you’ll have a ball there, it’s lovely! 
Hi Trissa-yes it was an amazing time there, wouldn’t change it for the world!
Hi maisie-Yes I’m not sure why we didn’t. It sounds lovely!
Hi Simon-It’s got such a cute main street!
Hi Red Dirt Mummy-it was!
Hehe sounds like the opposite of Mr NQN and I 
He doesn’t organise much and I constantly organise! 
Hi Liss-thanks! Yes if only for the cheese you know. Yes relaxing is good sometimes!
Hi Kitchen Butterfly-Oh wow, sounds like you managed to achieve a perfect holiday! how fantastic!
Hi grace-Hehe thankyou Grace!
Hi Matilda-Ahh yes if only we had room for the cheeses (and a fridge!). Hehe sounds like us too!
Hi Blond Duck-’Twas!
Hi Moya-yes thankfully Mr NQN was, otherwise it might have been hard on my Ls!
Hi shaz-Ahh yes they have foxglove gardens but we didn’t have time for those. Ahh yes the fish and chips!
Sounds like a good balance!
Hi Sirkka-hehe they’re cute aren’t they!
Hi Joumana-It’s gorgeous isn’t it! Hehe!
Hi Arlette-It was a very long day
You definitely should! 
Hi Celia-Haha ok! Now I understand as my mum has both!
Thankyou! 
Hi Dharm-It is pretty indeed!
Hi cityhippyfarmgirl-It is, we’ve usually just driven down the highway so it’s nice to see a different perspective. Ahh cool!
Hi Karen-Thankyou!
Yes something to keep you interested but not too much!
Hi Phunk-I know, they were soo good!
Hi Sasa-Isn’t it! I have a bit of an obsession with them and they make me giggle
sounds like you had a wonderful time! How blissful! 
Hi Sarah-thankyou so much!
Hehe I know exactly what you mean! 
No not at all!
Hi betty-thanks Betty, Happy Easter to you too!
Hi trish-Hehe thankyou!
You definitely should! It’s so much fun to go there slowly and with a nice view 
Oh cool! yes the price of the abalone was amazing! 
Hi Kelley-Hehe you too can go there and you should!
Hi Esz-Yes that’s a great idea!
Oooh yes do that! 
I’ve always wondered about one of those teeny fridges that plug into the dash for foodie roadtrips – otherwise it’s a coolbag and hope for the best, often with disappointing results.
Great to hear you mention Tilba – it’s such a wonderful place. I especially love Tilba Gold cheese. Nothing else is quite as good! Lovely to hear you enjoyed it too!
Isn’t Tilba just a beautiful little town?! I’ve been lucky enough to visit there a few times, because my Aunty lives in a town not far from there. I absolutely love the cheese from there and try and buy it as much as possible. I know it’s not the same but as far as I know you can usually buy the cheese in supermarkets.
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