I don’t usually make it a habit of writing about restaurants that have only been open for a few weeks. They’re usually finding their feet and finding their style and things often change as they settle in. But when Anna from the South Australian Tourism Commission suggested Celsius on fashionably funky Gouger Street in Adelaide and I was told that the chef Ayhan Erkoc was ex Noma (yes the top restaurant in the world according to the Michelin guide) as well as The Manse, Marque and Pier, well some rules are just made to be bent ever so slightly.
Inside is quite stunning indeed. On the right hand side are little alcoves where tables for two sit down. On the left there are soft velvet booths and they are yellow glowing lit from within marble tables and the bar is given the same treatment. It’s sleek looking but warm at the same time. Service is friendly but a little unsure on some details – this might be the newness of the place being only two weeks old.
Rye Bread with whipped parsley and regular butter
The rye bread is fresh, soft and the quennelles of parsley and regular butter are light and melt easily.
Bubbled Pork crackling, yogurt fennel pollen $6.50
At first I was all fine with having an entree, main and dessert. Until duh duh duh dum… I saw the bubbled pork crackling on the menu! It comes out looking like a sculpture. The pork crackling is earth shatteringly crisp and we find ourselves simultaneously trying to eat it without causing too much of a ruckus and without spilling dehydrated yogurt all over ourselves (bring a bib! 
). There is some fennel pollen deep fried within the crackling and then a tangy, salty dehydrated yogurt on top that is pure umami.
“Vegetable patch” snails, herbs, soil, flowers, raw and pickled vegetables $18
OK I ordered this more for the curiosity value. I knew it would be pretty as Anna had mentioned that the chef liked using nasturtiums and flowers in the dish. It comes out on a tile and looks just like a pretty garden. The snails are lightly battered and deep fried and there is an assortment of baby vegetables including orange and purple heirloom carrots, flowers, carrot tops, paper thin carrot slices, radish and cherry tomato. Some of the carrot was pickled which I preferred (I’m nonplussed about raw carrots) and whilst this was pretty and creative, I think this would have been appreciated by Mr NQN who loves his raw vegetables more than me.
Cured and smoked bonito, kohlrabi, dill, cream, fennel, potato $20
I preferred Anna’s dish which was cured and lightly smoked bonito fish, kohlrabi strips, dill sprigs, fennel strips and crunchy potato that was like delicious potato crisps on top of the delicious bonito.
Caramelised lamb sweet breads, seaweed, radish, beetroot $19
Chef Ayhan Erkoc was kind enough to send us out an extra entree, the lamb sweetbreads served with a strand of beetroot puree coated seaweed and half a radish and some golden beetroot. I do love sweetbreads and they’re soft, tender and squishy with the earthy beetroot seaweed.
Barossa Valley chicken, boudin noir, yolk, milk skin, walnut $28.90
Our mains come out shortly after and I decided on the local chicken, from the Barossa Valley. It is paired with a boudin noir (black or blood sausage), a yolk, milk skin and walnut powder.Milk skin you ask? Yes this was why I ordered it. I’ve always had a secret fetish for the skin on top of milk. The combination of the chicken, yolk, milk skin and boudin noir is lovely but I find that I only need a bit of the boudin noir or it may overwhelm the chicken. Instead I eat the rest of the boudin noir with the creamed corn which I enjoy immensely.
Salt Bush lamb, lentils, black garlic, carrots, turnips $31
Anna’s salt bush lamb is divine. There are loin pieces which are perfectly done and edged on one side with fat and then there is a brisket piece which has an interesting texture, quite dry and soft with an almost dessicated quality. And the black garlic which is such a costly and interesting ingredient, smeared on the side of the plate is the finishing touch giving it an intriguing smokey and sweet flavour.
Creamed corn $8
I love corn and this creamy lovely sweet corn is eagerly and quickly devoured by yours truly. Don’t judge me.
Chocolate mousse, honey comb, peanut praline, banana $16
This reminded me of some of the dishes at Attica. It is chocolate mousse in tiny morsels which are firmer, almost like a ganache, honeycomb shards, peanut praline with pieces of soft banana. On top is a banana ice cream which tastes like pure, smooth, sugar banana. I really enjoy the textures and flavours to this dessert.
Star anise custard, caramelised pineappple, pain d’epice, rum sorbet $14
The star anise custard comes out as a squat squirt of fragrant custard with some dark caramelised pineapple which is sweet and delicious, some gingerbread crumbs and a rum sorbet.
In this case, I’m very happy I “broke the rules”!
NQN travelled to and explored South Australia as a guest of Tourism South Australia.
Celsius Restaurant & Bar
95 Gouger St, Adelaide, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8231 6023
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35 Comments | Add your own
That garden salad is so pretty – and Noma-looking! Yes I agree, that culinary pedigree was just begging to be tried I think – it looks beautiful!
Ohh that looks amazing! I would love to try the smoked Bonito it looks so creamy! The Honeycomb mousse with praline also has my name all over it!!
I’m so glad you’re reviewing South Australia for me Lorraine ,as I’m making my first trip down there next year. Celsius is on my list of ‘to try’ places along with the Adelaide Central markets. The Star Anise dessert has my name all over it
I love sweet breads, too, but have never had lamb ones. Actually, I was lucky enough to try lamb rib at a San Francisco restaurant recently. It looked as succulent as pork belly and it did not disappoint.
You are right about things changing in the first few weeks of a restaurant, Lorraine, and a few things have been slightly rejigged at Celsius since it opened. We went there in it’s second week and were blown away by the food. We subsequently took some very important clients there just 2 weeks ago and had a simply stunning evening. The few little bugs had been ironed out, the food was amazing, the service was great and our guests were very impressed.
Ayhan is doing a brilliant job indeed!
The food looks amazing, too pretty to eat almost but what I loved most in this was your use of “squat squirt”! I can’t think of any better description for that custard!
That garden looks too cute to eat, but I think I would have loved it.
are you still in Adelaide?
go to Boho in unley for lunch, it’s so much fun there.
also i hope you visit the adelaide hills!
Going to Adelaide next month and this one looks like a must visit for sure. Amanda speaks highly of it too, think it might have us all ‘a buzz’
The whole menu sounded fantastic. Very well thought out and taking a few well calculated risks as well. Good luck to them as they get into their groove!
Oh lord, I’m not often that interested in super fine dining but this all looks so fresh and light and not-meat-heavy and INSANELY amazing! Those desserts! So many of my favourite flavours… peanuts, chocolate, pain d’epice… *swoon*
Living in Adelaide, I know what’s on our Anniversary dinner short list after reading this review (and Amanda’s recommendation)! Sounds like a very special place.
Mmmm … it’s always hard to decide on whether to try new restaurants in the teething stages. I tend to rely on bloggers like you to give a verdict, because I know you are always honest and fair. Lucky Adelaide foodies!
There are some interesting ingredients on this menu, it looks tasty & quite intriguing. The desserts especially sound divine!
The food is sooo pretty, especially the vegetable patch. Cute name.
I want a whole basket of those bubbled Pork crackling, peas and carrots.
oh lorraine, art on a plate! that food is just spectacular and aren’t those adelaide people lucky – and you of course!
corrie:)
Wow, looks fabulous! I’ve never been to Adelaide.
All of those plates look equally delicious! No wonder you enjoyed yourself. And I’m completely with you (not judging you at all) that creamy corn taste is so good..
Whenever I read one of your restaurant reviews I wished that I lived in a more cosmopolitan city with more restaurants. We just took a stroll through a newly renovated area of Nantes, though, and saw a string of new, hip restaurants with intriguing menus. You inspire!
Everything looks wonderful! This place reminds me of the newly opened Viajante restaurant in London.
I hadn’t heard much about Celcius even though it’s in my city. I went to The Manse when he was there and it was brilliant, so I’m definitely going to make a booking at his new venue. Thanks for an interesting review.
What an elegant restaurant. I especially love the sound of those deserts.
Hope you are having a lovely weekend.
*kisses* HH
hi lorraine
iam very fan of the dessert with the star anise custard combined with pineapple !!
Pierre
What a gorgeous place! The Vegetable Patch is such a pretty dish and you’re right, it looks just like a lovely little garden! I would never judge you about creamed corn, darling, but I may pull up a spoon!
The food looks so good and very very interesting. Especially the sweet breads. Yumm. How delicious….
Luck you – especially that bubbled pork crackling – and yes I agree rules are made to be broken!
Great review – everything looks gorgeous! I especially love the look of the salt bush lamb and the desserts!
Dessert! oh my!
I love how this dinner combines gorgeous flavors with an Alice in Wonderland sense of whimsy, particularly in the pork crackling and The Vegetable Patch.
I havent been to Adelaide before but this post and your recent post on the Adelaide Markets make we want to go onto expedia and book a getaway!
What a cool place, each dish looks like a work of art!
The term “milk skin” makes me feel somewhat nauseous. Luckily you had those dessert photos to distract me.
The chocolate mousse dessert looks wonderful – I can only imagine how good it tasted with the crunch of the praline!
Looks delicious Lorraine!
Ooh I’ll have to check this out when I’m back for Christmas – the vegetable patch is so cute! Next time you’re in Adelaide you’ll have to stop by my favourite restaurant just around the corner from there – British India (think teacup lights, stuffed peacocks, regal portraits and witty British Empire/Indian fusion food).
Briony xx
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