Marlowe is a South Brisbane restaurant located on the corner of Merivale Street and Fish Lane in the Old Merivale flats. It is located in a heritage listed Art Deco 1938 apartment block and was converted into the restaurant Marlowe in 2025. Come along and have a look at this very unique restaurant renovation and see what the food is like.
This is the first time I've seen an apartment block converted into a restaurant. The owners of the apartment block are Aria Property Group who saw the potential for converting a 1938 apartment block into commercial space. They completed the renovation of the Old Merivale Flats in 2025 and the Friends of Friends hospitality group transformed it into Marlowe, a classic bistro crossed with a Sunday roast. Not only did it include the block of apartments but also the World War II bunker that has been converted to what else but the "Bunker Bar".
The chef and co owner is Ollie Hansford and the menu focuses on local South East Queensland produce. Marlowe is also known for its 220 bottle strong wine list. The long, narrow kitchen sits at the back of the apartment block.
The restoration still maintains a retro feel with vinyl tiles (the original wooden floorboards sit underneath) and on the tables are vintage tableware, plates and glassware. Staff walk around in navy blue boiler maker inspired outfits - South Brisbane was formerly an industrial area with soda factories.
It's a place that begs exploration as there are so many nooks and crannies from the tiny booths, the sun rooms for couples or groups of 4 and tiny, moodily lit ensconced booths for 3.
The Bunker Bar sits along Merivale Street and just outside it is a miniature art deco style replica of the paladar Fumoir Salon by street artist Mace Robertson who installs these tiny doors all over Brisbane.
If there's one thing I'm going to insist you try when you come here, it's the curried crab brioche. A slender finger of soft brioche is topped with spanner crab, potato cubes, pickled caviar and a touch of makrut lime leaf. This is one of their most popular bites - not only is the spanner crab generously portioned, it's a mix of creamy and piquant and finished with a touch of Keen's curry powder. It's so good I have another, and then another.
Likewise the spiced gingerbread waffle is a triangle of crisp waffle topped with squiggles of feather light chicken pate with orange.
The ceviche changes daily and today's is pink snapper atop a bed of avocado puree with red capsicum gel and corn chips that is fresh and creamy. The fish that they use is all line caught fish from anywhere from Northern NSW coast to the Great Barrier Reef.
A new entree on the menu is an asparagus and quail egg tart with a rich Comte custard and pickled green tomato jam. The whole dish is creamy and has an appealing sweetness to it from the jam.
Their signature dish, along with the curried crab brioche, is the coral trout wellington. It is made with line caught Queensland coral trout, wrapped in spinach, seafood mousse and then a squid ink crêpe to protect it from the heat from baking the golden puff pastry crust. The result is a moist, super tender fish in a crispy pastry shell served in a chive butter sauce with caviar. It's decadent and divine and a good size for sharing between two or three people as it is on the richer side.
On the menu is a market price butcher's cut steak. I've only had citrus fed beef once before and I absolutely loved it. This is by Chauvel farms in Queensland and this is the bone in sirloin served with beef jus at the table. This is such a wonderful cut of meat and while it doesn't taste like citrus, the beef has a wonderful flavour to it.
There are several sides to go with the mains with everything from a perfectly dressed mixed leaf salad with a zingy vinaigrette to wonderful crispy Brussels sprouts with chipotle and a maple feta dressing to skin on fries with vinegar salt and a creamy bone marrow mash with onion gravy. While getting four sides might seem excessive, there isn't one that I'd want to cut out (and tip: dip the fries into the mash and gravy!).
And even if you've eaten a range of rich foods, the desserts do tend to be on the lighter side. There's the fluffy and light vanilla cheesecake with mulberries and mandarin sorbet that is worlds away from a heavy baked cheesecake.
For something a bit more classic there's the petite fruit pavlova that is a balance of creamy and zingy with a piquant pineapple and basil sorbet with a chantilly cream sandwiched between. It's a bright and fresh end to a spectacular meal.
So tell me Dear Reader, have you ever seen an apartment block turned into a restaurant?
NQN was a guest of Marlowe but all opinions remain her own.
Marlowe
105 Melbourne Street, South Brisbane QLD 4101
Phone: (07) 3505 6412
Opening hours: Tuesday 5pm - 10.30pm, Wednesday to Sunday 12pm - 4.30pm and 5pm - 11pm.
www.friendsof.com.au/venues/marlowe
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